Required Reading

May 14, 2008



FEELING FOR...HIGH WATER JEANS

Uh oh-- Bruce Pask, style setter and men's fashion director for the NY Times, is finding his pared down basic chic look a little boring. Now he's feeling like rolling up his jeans, a la My Three Sons! Here's what he wrote in The Moment today: "The other morning I was putting on a pair of jeans to go to work — a regular, nicely worn-in shrink-to-fit pair of Levi’s that I’ve had for quite some time. I put on a pair of sand suede Clark’s desert boots (I’ve been wearing them a lot and loving them lately), looked in the full-length mirror… and felt totally boring. After many traditional jeans-wearing years, with the 501 hem hitting the shoe, this felt ordinary, banal even…and a bit off...."
What's a fashion editor to do? Keep reading.

And don't miss the comments-- there are some angry people out there...





BUYING IN: ROB WALKER'S NEW BOOK

NY Times “Consumed” columnist, and Murketing blogger Rob Walker has a new book coming out, called Buying In. In the book Walker argues that while we’ve been hearing that brands are dead, and advertising no longer works, this accepted wisdom misses a much more important and lasting cultural shift. As technology has created avenues for advertising anywhere and everywhere, people are embracing brands more than ever before–creating brands of their own and participating in marketing campaigns for their favorite brands in unprecedented ways. Increasingly, motivated consumers are pitching in to spread the gospel virally, whether by creating Internet video ads for Converse All Stars or becoming word-of-mouth “agents” touting products to friends and family on behalf of huge corporations. In the process, they–we–have begun to funnel cultural, political, and community activities through connections with brands. “Buying In’ won’t be available until June 3, but you can pre-order a copy here.

May 13, 2008



REQUIRED READING: THE STYLISH BILLIONAIRE

While it often seems impossible to make money in the fashion business, Forbes magazine has shown us otherwise. their recent issue profiled several fashion billionaires, including Bernard Arnault (25B), Francois Pinault ($17B), And Ralph Lauren, pictured here, (a mere $4B). "While you know the brands, the designers and the supermodels, chances are, you've never heard of the people actually running the show. Despite bankrolling the tastes of millions--and making billions doing so--their names remain largely unknown," the article says, Watch the Video: The Stylish Billionaire. ( Forbes/ JC Report)

April 30, 2008



DUCKIE BROWN: BREAKING THE MENSWEAR MOLD

The Washington Post published a great story on the design duo behind Duckie Brown,  Daniel Silver and Steven Cox, entitled "Breaking the Menswear Mold." "The designers, who launched their label in 2001, have an affection for bold colors, unusual fabrics, sequins, embroidery and droopy crotches. The brand's distribution is limited, as not a lot of men have the wherewithal to dress up in an ivory organza blazer such as the one from the spring collection. But its customer base is dotted with boldface names, and in 2007 Cox, who is British, and Silver, who is Canadian, were nominated for best menswear designers by the CFDA." The story also mentions the coming Florsheim/Duckie Brown Collection as well as notes on the cotton and nylon trench coat shown above. (Selectism)

April 29, 2008



REQUIRED READ: THE LONDON CUT

Creators of unique bespoke suits for exceptional men and women, the master tailors of Savile Row have dressed the famous and infamous from all over the world, satisfying demand for the Row’s touch of elegance and eccentricity. Icons of Savile Row’s past include: Admiral Lord Nelson, the Duke of Windsor, Sir Winston Churchill, Fred Astaire, Cary Grant, and John Lennon. Costumers today demonstrate the Row’s spectacular diversity: the Princes William and Harry, Mick Jagger, David Beckham, Brad Pitt, Tom Cruise and Pete Doherty, to name a few. A new book, The London Cut, written by James Sherwood, style writer for Financial Times, International Herald Tribune, The Independent, and fashion critic at Royal Ascot for the BBC, is a portrait of modern Savile Row, and contains detailed information on London’s premier tailors, including images of Savile Row past and present. It presents both the style and story of a street that continues to inspire fashion: Ralph Lauren, Gianni Versace, Calvin Klein, and Tom Ford have all walked the Row while Stella McCartney and Alexander McQueen were trained there. (Rizzoli)



April 22, 2008



MEN'S JEANS NEED PLEATS

There’s a  strange but relevant article in today’s Telegraph called "Drainpipes are for Boys - Men's Jeans Need Pleats."  It begins:
“Charlie Porter is a gentleman and a foe to the prevailing styles of jeans, and picks the best brands to suit which are in store now…
It sounds totally square but the writer actually loves his new Acne Gentleman Jeans- which he believes are the antidote to the Cheap Monday phenom and a perfect jean for an older scenester. If you're feeling a little old these days, there's still hope for your wardrobe. Read the full story here.


April 04, 2008



RULES FOR LIVING BY PAUL MARLOW

While the traditional code of gentlemen is a relic of a past age, there is a movement to revive certain sartorial traditions as well as gentlemanly pursuits. In the April edition of Dejour magazine, the mustachioed Paul Marlow, one of Loden Dager's designers shares his rules to live by:

A man should always have an opinion.

A man should never rule out other possibilities.

A man Is in serious trouble when he hesitates.

If you can’t have a plan, at least have a direction.

Personally, I find repetitious apologies repulsive, because at some point, you have to learn.

Desperate times call for desperate measures. When in need, a clandestine trip to Mustique will make everything better.

There is not much better in this world than the feeling of uncontrollable laughter.

If there ever were a rule that begged on its knees to be broken, it is casual fridays.

 



April 03, 2008



BEHANCE NETWORK FOR CREATIVES

Tim from Coolhunting turned us on to the Behance network for creative professionals and the company has been on our radar ever since. There’s a great interview with the company’s founder, Scott Belsky on the JC Report. Read all about this unique company and how it’s seeking to help the creative community become more productive: You might have been unwittingly introduced to Behance when a colleague whipped out one of their nifty action notebooks, but these cleverly designed pads tailored to maximize creative output are just part of the brand's larger mission, which is all about connecting creatives and making ideas happen.
Recently named as one of the most exclusive online networks by BusinessWeek, Behance promotes a philosophy of doing through its network of top-tier creatives, an ongoing series of action-oriented articles, a suite of well-designed work products and a forthcoming global directory.

Read the full story here.

 

 



April 02, 2008



GQ'S WELL DRESSED REBELS

Another member of the BPMW family is getting some great recognition for his personal style. Public School designer Dao Yi Chow was shot for GQ’s April issue in a feature called "The Well Dressed Rebel ". the feature highlights some of the menswear industry’s most fashionable, influencers and offers GQ readers subversive, one of a kind style tips.  Dao’s take on things was to mix high end with a bit of attitude. And he looks hotter than ever in a tux and jeans by Alexander McQueen.   “If you look at my outfit, it’s formal from the waist up and nontraditional from the waist down,” he says. “It’s the perfect balance between luxe and edge. There’s still a fashion component to it, but the way you put it together, you’re not fashion. To pull it off, you have to pay attention: You have to keep the lines from the jacket to the jeans—and the jeans to the shoes—in proportion.”


 

Other featured guys include Saks’ Michael Macko, photographers Nathaniel Goldberg and Wayne Maser, designers Phiip Crangi, Andy Spade, Paul Smith, Byron Peart, Luigi Martini, Barker Black’s Creative Director Derrick Miller, and Coach VP Walker MacWilliam. On the whole there's a great array of fashion styles and interesting insights into non-traditional approaches to what can be very traditional business.

View the story here.




BKRW ON THE FUTURE OF STREETWEAR

Interesting article on BKRW about the future of streetwear : Today, everybody can do a good collection and make a buzz for one season. But the problem is to last, to confirm, and maintain an image, an aura with efficient products, coherent graphics over several collections and most of all quality. Everything happened very fast. In less than three years, more than 30 brands were born and grew together, watched on the same websites, in same books, same videos and same movies. These brands chilled at the same parties, met the same people, the same media sources, shared the same cultural references. Street culture is muting itself in a textile Crotzfeld Jacob disease... The basis of the Street Culture is a rejection of the mass market and conformism. Street Wear is born from a gap. An entire part of the urban culture  did not have clothes which matched with their own cultural references. So today, why are we doing the same things, the same co-brandings, the same graphics, using the same colors.And why does everybody want to go so fast ?

Read the full article here.

 



March 27, 2008



LUXURY RISING

The rise of bespoke products is a clear movement which has risen to the increasing perception that some luxury brands are increasingly interested in marketing rather than quality . American tailors - notably Thom Browne, and Tom Ford - have built powerful new brands on the power of bespoke. And now other categories are getting in on the action. Bespoke perfumes have been on the rise for several years, and continue to grow in strength: Bespoke perfume (and cologne, for men) is one of the ridiculous luxuries of a certain self-absorbed demographic, with the likes of Chanel and Cartier charging as much as €60,000 for the privilege of having a nose find your perfect scent. — (Via GridSkipper)  While Sir Hand Sloane offers bespoke chocolates:  The $2,400 tailor-made package includes tasting consultations, a handmade rosewood-and-maple inlaid box containing 60 customized chocolates, and a backup box of another 60. — (Via Time)...

(Agendainc.com)



March 25, 2008



BESPOKE SUITING FOR THE MASSES?

Fokke de Jong takes a pristine cashmere jacket from a rail in his new store, Suitsupply, in Mayfair, and in one dramatic gesture, rips out the lining. “You won’t find this kind of workmanship for this price anywhere else in the UK,” he says, motioning to the fi nely stitched inner construction of cotton, wool and camel hair. “It’s made using an old-fashioned Italian technique that gives a more comfortable fit.” The 34-year-old Dutchman is on a mission to give the cheap suit a good name with his Europe-wide Suitsupply chain. The formula is simple: high-end suits with a starting price of less than £200 for ready-to-wear and a mere £300 for bespoke tailoring – something that may have agitated a few folks on nearby Savile Row.  “They probably frown on us a bit, but I don’t really care what they think about it,” says de Jong. Business has been so brisk in the three months since the London branch launched that he confi dently predicts another six to eight UK stores will open within 12 months, eventually growing to a chain of 30. Read the full story here. (Sunday Times)