May 30, 2008



A DOSE OF CAPSULE: APRIL77

PhotobucketIn anticipation of the Paris Capsule Show (June 26-28th), we’ll be publishing profiles of each participating brand. First up is APRIL77, which will premiere both the S/S 09 collection of its self-titled fashion label, and a new music and clothing label, APRIL77RECORDS. The original label’s collection begs the question, “Did we really get on the moon?” with a theme of “Apollo Program Was a Hoax” – indicative of APRIL77’s strong, characteristic attitude. APRIL77RECORDS is a continuation of the original, yet its rock-and-roll inspired silhouettes with be accompanied by a monthly 7'’ vinyl record featuring a different band. (Featured groups include The Red Hearts, Neils Children, The Willowz, and Pets.) Pics after the jump highlight APRIL77’s F/W 08 collection. ---KB

 

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DAVID BYRNES' LATEST INSTALLATION

Playing the Building: An Installation by David Byrne opens to the public Saturday, May 31, 12 to 6pm. There’s also an opening celebration: 6 to 8 pm. This 9,000-square-foot sound installation will be free and open to the public. Guests can come and play this major music making machine! The Battery Maritime Building,

10 South Street
, NYC. Click here for directions and a map. For more information on the project, and to read an interview between David Byrne and Creative Time's President and Artistic Director Anne Pasternak, click here



RYKIEL HOMME FOLDS


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Elise Øverland may just be getting into the menswear market with her label, but it looks like Rykiel Homme has seen its end.  Nathalie Rykiel, Sonia's daughter, has revealed that the label has not lived up to the rest of the Sonia Rykiel empire, and so they're pulling the collection off shelves. Their SS 09 show in Paris is still on for next month, the last one after eighteen years. We have to say we're actually a little sad - who else is going to put the boys in pink leopard caps?(FASHIONISTA)

 

May 29, 2008



WHO ARE THE CFDA NOMINEES ?

The field of men’s wear designers nominated for the Council of Fashion Designers of America’s Fashion Awards this year is a testament to the fresh blood coursing through the industry’s reinvigorated veins. Of all six nominees, Thom Browne’s label has been around the longest—a mere eight seasons. Tom Ford’s giant profile dwarfs the competition’s, but his business is the newest, having launched just last year. They’re both up for Menswear Designer of the Year against Michael Bastian, who graduated into that senior award category from the emerging-designer group, perhaps by dint of his creative directorship at Bill Blass. Among the nominees for the Swarovski Award for Menswear, Tim Hamilton is the sole returnee. He faces the former fashion editor Patrik Ervell and Band of Outsiders’ Scott Sternberg, a former Hollywood agent and the only West Coaster in the bunch. Here we present a cross section of all these fresh perspectives.  Read about each of the nominees in DNR.



REQUIRED READING: PENNY PINCHING LOOKS GREAT

The NYT reports that fast fashion for men is what's up. "With no relief in sight at the gas pump, there is plenty of bad news in fashion these days. In this month’s results from a continuing consumer attitude study by the NPD Group, a market research firm, 51 percent of consumers said they plan to spend less on apparel, up from an already bleak 45 percent in April. A May survey by the Yankelovich polling group found that the percentage of American consumers reporting “severe anxiety” about their personal finances more than doubled, to 30 percent from 14 percent. But the good news is that fast fashion, as its name suggests, has excellent timing. The men’s style landscape, which has been transformed over the last few years by a generation of youthful dandies and the designers they love, has reached a price point that is, even for the overdrawn 2008 wallet, affordable. And men are responding."Read the full story here.

 

 

May 28, 2008



CLAUDE GRANT MENSWEAR

We’re always on the lookout for new young talent, and today we met with a rising star- Claude Grant. Grant is just launching his first eponymous menswear collection. We love his unusual silhouettes, his slouchy tops, strictured bottoms and high waisted trousers. Grant uses very high end materials, and manufactures everything right here in NYC. So support our local talent and check out pics of his upcoming debut fall collection after the jump.

 

 



TBC CANCELLED THIS SUMMER

Idex Media has cancelled the upcoming August edition of To Be Confirmed in order to concentrate on relaunching the show in a new location in February 2009. The show will move to Old Billingsgate Market in East London, which offers four times more space than its current Truman Brewery location. Buzz Carter of Idex Media said: "We've listened carefully to the constructive feedback from both brands and buyers, and it's clear what the industry wants next - a consistent home from where TBC can develop into a stunning and atmospheric event for international buyers." He added: "In Billingsgate we have the perfect venue and we will be unveiling further exciting show plans over the coming weeks." (wgsn)

May 27, 2008



JOHNSTONS CASHMERE MILLS IN SCOTLAND

For the past 211 years, Johnstons has operated from the Scottish Highland town of Elgin. The factory has gone from dabbling in tobacco, oatmeal, linen and flax to pioneering cashmere weaving in Scotland in 1851, to making fabrics for luxury brands such as Kiton, Hermès, and Burberry. In fact, Johnstons is the UK's last remaining vertical woollen mill and the only one still to carry out all processes from raw material to finished garments. How do they do it all? Read here. (Monocle)

 



CEL PHONE ADVERTISING ON THE RISE

Analysts like to make bold predictions about the growth of mobile advertising. Most have overshot reality.But at least one slice of the business appears to be catching on, according to marketers: ads sent via text message. A growing number of companies are using cellphone text messages to lend more interactivity to their ads. For instance, Coors Brewing's Coors Light beer recently added a text-message component to its traditional sponsorship of the NFL Draft. Football fans opted to receive draft alerts, and each message contained a squib about Coors Light. Read the full story on WSJ.com.



UNLIKELY COMBO: 7-ELEVEN AND BEAMS

 

The latest collaboration by Japanese select shop Beams is with 7-Eleven, producing a stationery collection that includes pens, sketchbooks and sticky notes. Many of the the products are re-editions of classic Japanese designs. This Mackee permanent marker, for example, is a classic staple, that will now sport a "Super Lucky 7" logo. The range is stocked in 12,000 7-Eleven shops in Japan, so there is no excuse for unattractive office utensils.  (Monocle)



DO SOMETHING GOOD FOR A CHANGE

The mounting human sufferings are almost unimaginable as the tasks of recovering continue after the double natural disasters this month in Myanmar (aka Burma) and China. We urge you to make a donation to help those who have been suffering for the past few weeks in China and Myanmar. On May 2nd 2008, tens of thousands of lives were lost and hundreds of thousands of homes damaged when Cyclone Nargis unleashed high winds, heavy rain, and floodwater in southwestern Myanmar. On Monday, May 12th, 2008, a major earthquake, measuring 7.9 on the Richter scale, jolted southwestern China’s Sichuan Province. Several lower-scale earthquakes and aftershocks followed in the same area. The quake destroyed many buildings in the area, as well as infrastructure like communication towers. According to the latest reports, more than 12,000 people have died and many more have been injured or are missing. Many schools were destroyed, including one that had at least 900 students in it. As authorities reach more remote areas, these numbers are expected to rise.

 

NOTE: Please be sure to donate to a reputable organizations or aid agencies.

 

» DONATE: American Red Cross China Earthquake Relief

 

» DONATE: American Red Cross Myanmar Cyclone Relief

 



LEVI'S OLDEST JEAN

Denim fans and in particular fans of genuine repro denim will be excited to hear of the launch of "Levi's Oldest Oldest Jean Pack", Hanon Shop have a pre-order available on the pack, set to drop in July at a price of just over USD800. The pack is made up of an Exact replica of a 133 year old jean, the oldest known, found in a Nevada mining town, Made of 9-ounce denim, details include shank buttons, patented rivets, single-needle arcuate, cinch-back and four pockets. With an old school bag pack and Sunset Tee. More details here. (Slamxhype)



THIS JUST IN: MACKO TO JOIN DETAILS MAG

We hear from our spies at the Details editorial offices that there's a bit of a shakedown over there, and a great addition to the team. Saks Fifth Avenue's men's fashion director and head of publicity Michael Macko is joining Details in the newly created position of Fashion Director. It sounds like an amazing opportunity for both the publication and Macko, who is known as one of the nicest, and most influential men in the menswear industry.

 

May 26, 2008



STREET PICS: FACEHUNTER IN STOCKHOLM

The FaceHunter is in Stockholm this week and he's gotten some amazing photos. As you probably noticed, Sweden is where it's at right now, when it comes to style and design. These pics from FaceHunter just solidifies all we've seen and heard lately.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 



CHURCH'S REOPENS HISTORIC STORE IN LONDON

Talk about traditional British footwear and the name Church’s always comes up. The English shoe brand established in 1873, is  reopening its historical store - adding little cutting-edge design to the old fashioned oak and leather interior, - within London's Burlington Arcade.  "The Church's store adopts a new design concept interpreted with great composure by architect Roberto Baciocchi, combining the most classical elements of the brand with its international new image, in full respect of Church's historical identity," a spokesperson for the label explains.  In addition to traditional footwear designs, silk and cashmere ties, accessories and branded leather goods will also be sold at the shop. (Vogue.com.UK)

May 25, 2008



NY DESIGN WEEK: ALL POSTS IN ONE PLACE

In case you missed NY Design Week, design blog Core 77 has wrapped it all up in a neat series of posts. Click here to have your pick of stuff to read and look at.

 

May 22, 2008



CHLOE SEVIGNY FOR OPENING CEREMONY

PhotobucketKeep an eye out for Chloe Sevigny’s latest collaboration with Opening Ceremony, this time for a men’s line. Anticipate an answer to her women’s collection, with very 90’s, grunge, masculine lines. Sevigny has hinted that the line will also translate into smaller sizes for women looking to preserve the proportions of menswear. -- KB


TOM FORD VS THOM BROWNE

EVEN if you spend a lot of time around fashion and the endearing nut jobs who create it, this question comes up every so often: Who is that person? By that person, one is referring to an imaginary consumer, a man who designers have decided should wear skintight flood pants and a Pee-wee Herman jacket barely grazing his behind. Who exactly is the boy/man fashion is crazy about lately, the guy wearing tennis shorts or onesies or the sort of jacket an Etonian whom I know claims was called a bum-freezer when he was at school?

 

Who, in other words, is the Thom Browne man? Guy Trebay gets to the bottom of one of menwear's most burning quandaries and more in today's NYT. Read the full story here.



BLUEFLY LAUNCHES THE TAILOR

Online fashion retailer Bluefly.com has just launched "The Tailor," their new mens online shop dedicated to filling the needs of a more "sophisticated" gentleman. "“The Tailor is designed to be a resource for the man who has a keen sense of style and takes pride in his appearance, but doesn’t take himself too seriously,” said Bluefly CEO Melissa Payner. “Visitors to the site will find The Tailor to be authoritative, not pretentious. They’ll walk away feeling like an insider on how to shop for a sharp tailored look without setting foot into a store.” Visitors should expect the usual fine array of mens suits,shoes, ties, and accessories. (via HauteConcept/Selectism)

 

May 21, 2008



DIESEL DENIM GALLERY: ARROJADA

PhotobucketThe Diesel Denim Gallery (DDG) ushered in 2008 New York Design Week on Monday night with a reception for ARROJADA (“audacious” in Spanish, but also the word for a vertically stacked cactus), an exhibition featuring the combined efforts of Madridian arist Jaime Hayon and design firm Moooi. The unique, totem-like “stacking” of functional items like chairs, tables, and mirrors are playful, abstract collages of the commercial and natural world. Each work reflects Hayon’s background as an industrial designer;the shiny, futuristic finishes, his eclectic style. DDG itself is a conceptual link between retail and art, displaying ironic and controversial art works, like those of ARROJADA, alongside “wearable” art – Diesel’s own collection of limited edition denim. More pics after the jump. --KB

 

 

 

 

 

 

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May 20, 2008



CONFERENCE OF BIRDS

 

Because fashion is nothing if not an allegory, new men's line Conference of Birds takes its name from a 15th-century Persian poem about a group of feathered creatures—a peacock, crane, parrot, nightingale—in search of enlightenment. We can totally see the comparison: blazers, trenches, sweaters, jeans. Designer and stylist Andrew Holden calls it nostalgically modern, a moody blend of British tailoring and American work wear. We get it...(Hint)

More pics after the jump.



EYEWEAR: KRIS VAN ASSCHE FOR OLIVER PEOPLES

PhotobucketKris Van Assche of Dior Homme has designed a limited edition sunglasses collection for Oliver Peoples Spring/Resort ’08. The athletic-urban style frames, complemented by interchangeable coolly hued lenses, allow their wearers a unique flexibility of style and point of view. Rosy-colored or not, these sunglasses will certainly change your perspective – pick up a pair next month for £250.-- KB

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

May 19, 2008



D LINE BY TASS STANDARD

Our friends over at Skeleton Legs have been doing a great job uncovering young Japanese menswear collections and today they tipped us off to D-Line by Tass Standard. The collection, pictured here, aims to mix dressy silhouettes with casual elements to create a fresh look. Click through to see more images here. There's also A-Line by Tass Standard, which is more Americana-derived, and features lots of soft washed tees and sweats.


WELCOME BACK WALTER

We hear that one of our favorite designers, the teddy bear-like Walter von Beirendonck, is planning on making a comeback for SS 09. The designer, who is known for his outrageously creative and usually playful designs, is releasing a new collection, and will be a featured designer at the upcoming Pitti Uomo show in Florence in June. There's a nice overview about what Walter's been up to lately in today's Independent. And, he's created a short film called "Skin King" for Political Fashion, which can be viewed on the Show Studio blog. We're looking forward to seeing what he's planning next...

 



GIRBAUD ACQUIRES MAJORITY STAKE IN US LICENSEE

Paris-based Marithé & François Girbaud has acquired a majority stake in I.C. Isaacs & Co., the U.S. firm that markets the brand here under license. The move will inject fresh capital into financially troubled I.C. Isaacs as it strives to improve its business here, and creates a closer working relationship between the French brand owner and the U.S. licensee.  “We are thrilled to make this investment in our U.S. business,” said François Girbaud, who cofounded the company with his partner of more than 40 years, Marithé. “We continue to believe that our brand has major growth potential in select segments and know, now more than ever, that we have a strong strategy and team to take advantage of this potential.”  (DNR)

May 18, 2008



BBC: BLOOD, SWEAT & T-SHIRTS

"Green" fashion has been getting lots of press lately, but what about "ethical" fashion? We all talk about how fun it is to find great style at a price, but we rarely consider what it takes to make the disposable fashion we all buy. The BBC sent 6 fashionistas to India to experience working in the rag trade. These poor kids have to pick cotton, work and sleep in a factory, and witness all the aspects of making High Street fashion. Their experiences are shocking. Watch the series, called Blood, Sweat & T-Shirts here. It's quite eye opening.


STYLE PROFILE: THE JONAS BROS

The Jonas Brothers are performing this Wednesday on the series finale of American idol, so we thought we’d take a look at their style. The boys, ages 14, 17 and 19, whose album is on the Disney Hollywood label, are pretty wholesome heart throbs, who reportedly wear CHASTITY RINGS seem to have some pretty hard working stylists. These boys always looked dressed to the nines, with whatever the latest style is. Call it canned fashion --they may not be setting any trends, but they’re definitely spreading them around. We love the recent emphasis on neckwear!  Anyway, check out some pics of the boys after the jump. It's all just so darn cute!



KAWS VIDEO ON YOU TUBE

Has it been ten years already? KAWS has been plastering the world with his graffiti (we all well know the Krusty-the-Clown-cum-skull image well by now) for well over a decade now. We just came across this post on Anthem just came upon this great-- a three-minute film about the artist when he was just a young, burgeoning creative trying to carve his own path in this overwhelming world. Don't miss the part when he spills the beans on how exactly a [spray-]painter gets into those hard-to-access padlocked areas (i.e. bus-stop poster cases). Oh, and what the hell is Ron English doing in this thing!? Wow, we're drolling over this one at the Anthem HQ ... Eat it, Banksy.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 photo: Shawn Mortensen



SLATE'S HIGH STYLE FOR LOW TIMES

Good news for American designers. Slate magazine has a feature called "High Style For Low Times, How fashion and luxury firms will ride out a recession," which projects how us retailers will be weathering the looming recession. The article expects US designers to benefit at home from a weak dollar. “The disastrous state of the dollar abroad has made the importation of European collections prohibitively expensive in America, causing buyers to cut back on purchases from design houses overseas,” according to the piece. Read the full story here.

 



OAK LAUNCHES OAKAZINE, ISSUE 2

Oak, the Brooklyn boutique that recently opened a flagship on Bond Street in Manhattan launched issue 2 of Oakazine- a homegrown magazine that covers all sorts of fashion and lifestyle topics, designer profiles, great photos and inspiration. Pick one up at the store today!

 

 



QED+ THE NEW BLACK

q.uod e.rat d.emonstrandum, shortened to q.e.d., is a Berlin-based fashion label, founded by Julia Böge, Simona Gabrieli and Jasmin Moallim in 2006- fashion students who shared a love of the color black. Q.e.d.’s new A/W 08/09 collection „cinesthetic“ pays homage to the flip book as the predecessor of the film, as well as it pays tribute to its pioneers, the Skladanowsky brothers of Berlin. Kinesis=movement and aethesy=perception are the key ideas of the collection, which are implemented into the pieces through transforming their static into movement, thus, giving the wearer the opportunity to make small changes themselves in order to let them participate in the process of creating. The flipping movement will be realized by contrasting square-edged shapes with round ones, through layering, cuttling, bountiful volumes and surprising patterns. Matte surfaces are contrasted with shiny ones, moveable layers and prints translate the playing with optical illusion, its colors ranging in different nuances of black.

 

 photos:Jana Denzel

 

May 16, 2008



EVENTS: WINE & WICKER

Last night BPMW and Black Swan Wines hosted Wine & Wicker, an indoor Gatsby-esque garden party at the Black Swan party space in SoHo. Guests were encouraged to dress up, view botanical paintings by Subversive Jewelry designer  Justin Giunta, and play croquet to the sounds of River Alexander and the Mad Jazz Hatters.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Pics after the jump...

 

 

 

 

 

May 14, 2008



FEELING FOR...HIGH WATER JEANS

Uh oh-- Bruce Pask, style setter and men's fashion director for the NY Times, is finding his pared down basic chic look a little boring. Now he's feeling like rolling up his jeans, a la My Three Sons! Here's what he wrote in The Moment today: "The other morning I was putting on a pair of jeans to go to work — a regular, nicely worn-in shrink-to-fit pair of Levi’s that I’ve had for quite some time. I put on a pair of sand suede Clark’s desert boots (I’ve been wearing them a lot and loving them lately), looked in the full-length mirror… and felt totally boring. After many traditional jeans-wearing years, with the 501 hem hitting the shoe, this felt ordinary, banal even…and a bit off...."
What's a fashion editor to do? Keep reading.

And don't miss the comments-- there are some angry people out there...



RETAIL: ALOHA RAG

PhotobucketAloha Rag, founded in Honolulu in 1991 by Tatsugo Yoda, recently opened their first mainland store in New York. The new location will carry of the designers that define the Hawaii store and online selection, including a limited edition collabo with Japanese label Garment House Mania, select 3.1 Phillip Lim, Lanvin, Martin Margiela, and Yochinori Kotake Design, in addition of several smaller, independent designers from Japan and New York. We love the cool, clean array of men's and women’s clothing, but Aloha Rag’s accessories collection is what impresses us the most – unisex totes and sneakers from Lucian Pallat-Finet, Ksubi sunglasses, spring-y cotton scarves from Golden Goose are just a few.

Aloha Rag 505 Greenwich Street, NYC , 212.925.0882



BUYING IN: ROB WALKER'S NEW BOOK

NY Times “Consumed” columnist, and Murketing blogger Rob Walker has a new book coming out, called Buying In. In the book Walker argues that while we’ve been hearing that brands are dead, and advertising no longer works, this accepted wisdom misses a much more important and lasting cultural shift. As technology has created avenues for advertising anywhere and everywhere, people are embracing brands more than ever before–creating brands of their own and participating in marketing campaigns for their favorite brands in unprecedented ways. Increasingly, motivated consumers are pitching in to spread the gospel virally, whether by creating Internet video ads for Converse All Stars or becoming word-of-mouth “agents” touting products to friends and family on behalf of huge corporations. In the process, they–we–have begun to funnel cultural, political, and community activities through connections with brands. “Buying In’ won’t be available until June 3, but you can pre-order a copy here.