Q&A: Shayne Oliver of Hood By Air
It's pretty safe to say that when searching for the pulse of New York's social scene, one doesn't have to look much further than the gentrified streets of the LES. Sure, you can hit midtown to shop. And sure you can shmooze at mixers with "old-money", but you'll find nary a Banksy sighting, and even fewer like-minded people (probably because they're all at Off Bowery or The Delancey). And few people know the scene better than Shayne Oliver of Hood By Air. Whether he's co-hosting a party with Roxy Cottontail, or chillin' with Vashtie at a 1992 affair, Oliver has become a part of the backdrop of the new LES scene. I caught up with him to chat about his much buzzed about line, the kids from around the way and what's next for Hood By Air.
-Virginia Jackson-Reed
A label's name usually captures the designer's aesthetic. What's the story behind "Hood By Air"?
It's a multi-faceted name. It has to do with the sensibility that my friends and I had acquired from being involved in fashion but being from a different background than many of our industry peers. It’s like Men In Black (when the aliens were trying to appear like humans). We learned to appreciate, not condone where we came from (the hood), and incorporated the hood look into our style of dress and vice versa. So instead of it becoming streetwear, it evolved into street fashion. This is what Hood By Air works to epitomize. To us, this is the future.
I also believe that being “hood”, not ghetto (huge difference), is skill: to make something out of what you have. Instead of becoming a victim to your circumstance, find the pros and run with them to find your way out of it!
The pieces have an unusual mix of edgy and chic-- something even more unexpected from a guy who grew up in Minnesota. What would you cite as your inspiration growing up?
I was born in Minnesota, but grew up mostly in St. Croix and Trinidad. My grandparents served as a huge inspiration to my views (in terms of fashion). My grandmother used to be a label-obsessed seamstress and my grandfather was a don dada.
In Minnesota I was inspired by the hood girls, they all dressed like their boyfriends (who were usually vice lords) with better hair.
St. Croix is where I first learned the concept of “getting dressed”. Everybody hung out in malls. The sneakers, the clothes, the music (The Fugees’ The Score had just dropped)… so much fun!
Besides the don dadas, Trinidad is a lifestyle inspiration for me. They are very free and work hard to be happy. To me, Americans work hard to appear to be happy.
Who would you currently cite as your muse?
Hood boys and girls, and my squad.
What would you say inspired the Fall '08 collection?
The goths and punks of Astor Place, Wu Tang Clan and Joan of Arc. I wanted to play with the dark side of hip-hop.
Are there any trends in menswear that you love, or on the other hand, would like to send out into fashion exile ("hammer pants" style)?
Trends I don't really know. I like when people acquire their own classics; hood boys in skinny jeans, that’s 'kinda cool (if you fit them right).
We should do away with exact interpretation dressing. If you’re 'gonna do it, apply something new. If you don’t, at least be good at it… Oh, and the Keffiyeh scarf.
Would you say that you have a "signature silhouette"?
The “hood” look past or present, boy or girl, and the fusion of it all.
This is literally just the beginning; what can we expect in the near future from Hood By Air?
Art, multimedia, events... they are all in the works. I want to make Hood By Air an obtainable product of our lifestyle. I just want it to be good.
