February 23, 2008



RETAIL: CLAUDE MAUS, AUSTRALIA

Claude Maus, the fashion line born from Rob Maniscalco's covert designs in 1999, has previously been available in only select boutiques in Australia and worldwide. Now, the brand's first flasgship store has opened in Melbourne.


19 Manchester Lane, Melbourne 3000, Australia, 61 3 9654 9844

Posted by Laura Kenkel

 

photos by claudemaus.com

The store resembles a log cabin falling apart at the seams with piles of unfinished wood acting as shelving units and hangers. Precariously placed piles of plywood provide eye-catching interest in the center of the glossy hardwood floors while cords hang from the ceiling like dislodged electrical wires and leopard print paper is half-torn from the walls. The rough architecture, however, is a perfect complement to the sleek, soft clothing it houses.
Since it's still cold over here in the US, I remain a fan of their Winter '07 collection, which consisted of supple leather styled into motorcycle jackets, miniskirts, and anoraks, paired with plaid and luxuriously detailed cotton accents for both men and women. Trenches were also reworked in steel denim gray and black with hoods and exaggerated lapels.
But in Melbourne, Claude Maus' new spring collection has hit the racks, revealing designs almost entirely constructed from sheer cotton. Short-sleeve anorak-esque pieces in muted colors like taupe and black rest lazily over racerback tank tops that fall mid-hip, while long, low-plunging knit tops are paired with skinny leather pants. Layering, clearly, remains key.

February 22, 2008



RETAIL: BLUE & CREAM, NYC

Unlike its sister stores in the Hamptons, the new Blue & Cream boutique on Bowery has no charming awning or rustic white and brick exterior. Instead the Lower East Side locale boasts an exceedingly industrial glass and steel façade, with a sleek and modern interior – clearly an attempt to break away from its beachy Hampton casual-chic beginnings and introduce a more polished, refined style in Manhattan.

Posted by Laura Kenkel

 

 

photo from theshophound.com

Well, it seems to have worked. From opening night, the upscale shop, located in an area that has only recently become a neighborhood for the young, hip, and rich, has attracted such celebs and socialites as Lydia Hearst, Ali Hilfiger, and Lindsay Lohan – visitors who can afford the designs by Zac Posen, Doo Ri, and Herve Leger, among many others, which average $200-$400. Men are a bit out of luck, however, with only a single wall devoted to Stussy and Maharishi picks.
Besides serving as an ideal place for celebrity spotting while pining for beautiful, out-of-budget clothing, the Bowery location also plans to host monthly rotating art exhibits and unique fine jewelry lines. Look forward to the Futura 2000 fine art exhibition on display beginning this Wednesday through March 20th.

February 20, 2008



FETTY LIMITED EDITION SNEAKER FOR DKNY

Greenpoint, Brooklyn boutique Alter is releasing a ltd edition sneaker collabo between Fetty of Brooklyn and DKNY tonight. Front man of NYC band Semi Precious Weapons and designer of Fetty of Brooklyn jewelry, Justin Tranter, along with the owners of Alter boutique to design the sneaker that encapsulates the garage-glam spirit of his band and jewelry company. The sneaker has Ballistic Nylon upper and elastic laces with gold-tone aglets. Each shoe is customized with gold-tone laser etched heel name, and a movable Fetty “New York Rock” & heart charm hanging from the top eyelet. Alter will be the only store in the United States to stock this limited run of 24 sneakers. There will be 12 Men’s/$195 each and 12 Women’s/$175 each. The shoes go one sale tonight at Alter at 8pm.

Alter, 109 Franklin Street (between Greenpoint Avenue and Milton Street). Greenpoint, Brooklyn. 718-784-8818

 

 



SAVILE ROW ON BBC

Currently delighting British tailoring fetishists: Savile Row, a three-part BBC documentary that goes behind-the-curtains with London's finest tailors, from Richard Anderson to the blokes from Henry Poole. Among the highlights: watching Row vets look on in horror as Abercrombie & Fitch opens its English flagship down the street, only to come around (kind of) after A&F owner Mike Jeffries stops by Norton & Sons for a suit—wearing flip-flops, of course. Unfortunately there's no word yet on when (or if) BBC America plans to air it, but bootleg videos are floating around online. Or so we're told.

(men.style.com)

February 19, 2008



BRANDS WE LOVE: BIJULES

I think its pretty safe to say that I like to talk-- a lot. Not that its a bad thing; I'm just not afraid to speak what's on my mind. That may be the reason I'm in love with Bijules. I mean, I like for my jewelry to be as brazen as I am, and Jules Kim's line is certainly one filled with statement pieces.

 

From her "Bite Jules" collection (a playful jab at her imitators, which used real castings of her lip, her roommate's retainer, and her late aunt's teeth) to her "Bling Privée" rings (her ever-popular curved bar rings, with precious stones that are visible only to the wearer,) each piece has a story behind it.

Her most recent collection, apltly named "Hairem," plays with multi-functionality; using hair (both human and synthetic,) to create pieces that can be fashioned into jewelry, or hair accessories. Noteworthy pieces include the "Hairball" (a lapel pin which can be worn as a pillbox hat-- it also resembles a bun,) her "Hairrings," (earrings which, when worn blend in with the rest of the wearer's hair, create the effect of highlights.)

Another noteworthy collection is her "Nail Rings," which are fun, brass rings that resemble acrylic tips, which are worn over the real nail. They also feature snakes (on the pinky ring, it slithers up the finger, on the others, down,) and are malleable, so they conform to the wearer's finger. And if you're feeling really adventurous, you can buy customized, blinged-out versions of the rings with the precious stone(s) of your choice. But hey, I've said a mouthful already; go check out the collection-- it speaks for itself. -Virginia Jackson-Reed

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

February 18, 2008



PLAY CLOTHS BY CLIPSE

After what was much more of a dull roar than a buzz, VA rap duo Clipse debuted their new line, Play Cloths at MAGIC last week. The collection is filled the "usual supsect" streetwear items, and will add more items, such as jeans, to its repertoire in the near future. I must say the logo is rather cute, but its a bit dèja vu (considering that the BBC logo feautures a running fox.) From what I've seen so far, I'm not too impressed (I must have some kind of point because MAGIC was a whole week ago, and the blogs haven't made so much as a peep about it.) Well, we'll see, hopefully in the seasons to come, they can shake off some of the inevitable comparisons  to their buddy Pharrell's labels, and bring something fresh to the streetwear game!

-Virginia Jackson-Reed



REQUIRED READING: TEMPORARY SHOPS MAKE LASTING IMPRESSIONS

You probably already know how pop up retail creates a sense of urgency and is a popular marketing tactic for many brands. Now London's venerable Financial Times covers the phenomenon's global reach.  Read all about it here.


LONDON RUNWAY: THE MAN SHOW

                                                     At one of the most directional shows of London Fashion Week, the Man Show, chunky knits met sporty looks and some rather wacky looks. Three new names joined Topman Design this season.  First out was Kesh, a streetwear label with a mature approach to urbanwear. Wool plaid skate shorts, quilted sweatpants and a patent-sleeved baseball jacket were both saleable and cool. Next up came James Long, whose harness-like accessories have already garnered countless pages of editorial. Texture was central to the collection, with oversized curly sheepskin jackets and three-dimensional knitted stitch structures twisting their way around chunky sweaters. Hans Christian Madsen was the last of the new names to show, with a collection inspired by naval military clothing. Knitwear was a strongpoint for Madsen - the oversized cardigans, T-shirt sweaters and textured Fair Isle patterns all highlights. A sporty element also ran through the collection. Topman Design closed the show with a collection that focused on technical fabrics, sportswear influences and layered styling for protection against the elements - the latter arriving as windcheaters, crinkled coated-nylon trousers and padded plaid shirts, a creative update for a commercial bestseller. Oversized stitch-banded knitted coats were another highlight, and the palette of burgundy, cobalt, magenta and vivid Kelly green colored the wearable winter brights. (wgsn)

We've got some pics after the jump.  (photos: Coutorture)

               


BRANDS WE LOVE: BLACKBURN

Its been said that "still waters run deep." In the same way, understated beauty is that much more captivating than that of the decadent variety; while Pamela Anderson has (an arguable) sex appeal, most would contend that Alicia Keys' natural, earthy look is far more appealing-- because it's effortless. That same formula applies to fashion. While showing up in a pair of sky-high, 5", pumps that'd make even Andre J. blush and a skin-tight Hérve Legér bandage dress will undoubtedly get you noticed, (and major points for "fierceness") a true glamor puss can pull off a simple frock and a pair of flats-- and still look like a million bucks.

Unfortunately, most people miss that crucial detail (which would explain the recent advent of androgynous, cool kids dressed in day-glo, lamé and spandex.) In my estimation, Kanye is chic. David Bowie? Well, iconic, at best... That said, Fabric by Blackburn is a line that marries understated with over the top; using color and patterns to enhance simple silhouettes, and punch up basics.

The line, now entering its third season, the line shies away for somber colors, skulls, and crossbones, in favor of  a much brighter palate. In lieu of the darker, morbid icons that every season or so become pervasive in fashion, Blackburn, even down to his logo (a bird which is meant to represent a free spirited outlook,) hopes to keep pumping a steady flow of color and life into the wardrobes of its customers for seasons to come. -Virginia Jackson-Reed

Available at:

Bill Hallman, Atlanta
Closet, Englewood (New Jersey)
Pieces, Harlem
Vinnie's, Brooklyn
Leaders, Chicago
Seven, Atlanta

 

 

 

 

 

 



INSPIRATION: THERE WILL BE BLOOD

The rugged, tailored looks in the film There Will Be Blood are totally now! We were getting Obedient Sons meets Steven Alan vibes as we sat in the theater. The movie was good, too. But the costumes were totally inspiring. We've got a few looks after the jump.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 



CLOTHING JEWELRY BY TOY ME

What do you get when fashion design meets jewelry design? Well, you get Toy Me's new collection (which is full of fun, conversational pieces, as usual.) The collection, (which has a 1950s flare) came about when a recent design school graduate started at the company. According to Georgi, he asked her to pick an era she really liked, and thus, we have another adorable collection from Toy Me. And although the "Fonz Jacket" necklace is pretty sick, my favorite piece would have to be the "Betty Bustier" necklace; its the one time visible underwear isn't a major faux-pas. -Virginia Jackson-Reed

 

More pics after the jump





 

 

 

 

February 17, 2008



BRAND OVERVIEW: BERNHARD WILLHELM

Ever innovative, designer Bernhard Willhelm trained with our favorite avant-garde designers. He has created a fantastically beautiful and completely-off-the-wall universe. In 1998, after graduating from the Royal Academy of Antwerp, he  assisted Walter Van Beirendonck, Alexander McQueen, Vivienne Westwood and Dirk Bikkembergs. In September 2002, he settled in Paris. Bernhard Willhelm started with womenswear, a collection that premiered at the Paris fashion shows in March 1999. He created his first samples for menswear in October 2000, which he wouldn't showcase until January 2003 at Menswear Fashion Week. He recently  launched his first shoe line, and created the “White Wild Bunch”, a clothing line only available online at YOOX.com. He also received the ANDAM Grand Prize as the most promising talent of the new creative scene. His fall 08 collection is active / dance inspired, and modelled by real dancers. We've got pics after the jump.

 (Totem)

 

         


APRIX ON SLAMXHYPE

Since we first heard of Aprix new line of footwear last year, I've been impressed and intrigued. The footwear released was in a timely fashion, simple, classic and of the highest quality and fitting with new trends within the industry, you could tell though, there was much more to it than fitting trends, there was a genuine feel to the brand and perhaps the reason why the product was so good. I decided to see if I could find out more and got hold of Michael AKA Skinny from Aprix Sports. 

 (via Slamxhype) Read the full interview here.



HEADLINE NEWS: STORIES YOU SHOULD READ...

British Designers take Gothic Inspiration (FT) 

London Tradeshow Report: Pure, Margin, & TBC (Sportswearnet)

Marc Ecko to Part Ways With G-Unit (DNR)

Murakami Mania Hits Brooklyn (The Daily)

Bernhard Willhelm's NY Minute (FWD)

Milan's Fashion Houses Are Moving Into High Tech Homes (IHT)