We just got back from Copenhagen and we saw tons of great style. While the CPH show was a bit too urban for us (we saw a bunch of brands we havent thought about in 5 years-- like Dada and Apple Bottoms) the smaller, Gallery show was great. We hobnobbed with the kids from Wood Wood, Julian Red and Fifth Avenue Shoe Repair. We also loved many of the Swedish labels; Pour, Whyred and Velour. We've got some pics of some of the people we met after the jump.
Yesterday, I was tipped off by two very reliable sources at Calvin Klein that they are to jump on the eCommerce bandwagon this Summer. The company has recently opened five US retail locations for their White Label, and the website will stock items from the store, and possibly exclusives as well. While their underwear line already has its own site, I have to admit I am far more interested in what they make to go on top, than underneath. Although perspicacious labels like YSL already offer online shopping, its still nice to see that they're getting in on the action!-(VJ-R)
The Facehunter is out in Scandinavia snapping the walking style moments he sees all around him. We are particularly fond of the all-black trend that's on the rise . We've got some pics from Copenhagen and Stockholm after the jump, courtesy of Ivan the Facehunter.
Scandinavian design has been influencing us for some time in both the interiors and fashion arenas. So we finally decided to get on over to Copenhagen for the CPH and Gallerie Shows, to soak up some Nordic influence and meet some cool people and cool brands. We caught the Danish brand Wood Wood's fashion show earlier this evening. For it's 7th collection, called the "big bang" collection, Wood Wood considers serious issues such as global warming, Armageddon, and the futuristic idea of space colonization. For men, classic and casual streetwear-- basic tees, classic shirts, chinos, jeans, knitwear and sweatshirts-- are twisted into interesting silhouettes. Fabrics range from classic mix of dark navy corduroy, light denim chambray, check flannel, to lambswool knitwear. Womenswear reflected a tomboyish edge using menswear materials, colors, and shapes. We personally love the plaid knee length shorts! Pics after the jump.
And always known for their exciting collaborations, Wood Wood teamed up again with heritage outerwear maker Penfield with a new bordeaux-red leather jacket.
First there was Alexander McQueen for Samsonite, then there was Thom Browne for Brooks Brothers. Now the latest edgy designer to team up with a traditional menswear brand is Duckie Brown. In the fashion industry's latest odd-couple pairing, century-old shoe company Florsheim, known for its wingtips, has chosen edgy menswear designer Duckie Brown, known for its sequins, to create a line of men's dress shoes, reports the Wall Street Journal. Florsheim executives learned of the Duckie Brown team from an item in the New Yorker magazine this past June about a New Jersey high-school senior who asked the designers to make a prom suit for him; they did -- and sent along a pair of Florsheim shoes that they had used in a runway show for him to wear with it. The Duckie Brown label has annual sales of only $1 million and is carried in only about 18 stores world-wide. Mr. Florsheim says the company considered bigger names but decided to go with an "up-and-coming" designer brand "that's a little less predictable." (WSJ)
photo: men.style.com
Deisgner Raf Simons, one of today's most influential designers has created a capsule collection of high fashion technical bags in collaboration with bag maker Eastpak. We saw these on runway at Raf Simons' spring show but our friends at Selectism have just tipped us off that they are in stock at Oki-Ni for a mere £279.00 (yes, that's like $600!...)
We've got some pics after the jump.
photos: oki-ni
Andre Benjamin (aka Andre 3000) is known for his fearless approach to fashion that updates traditional menswear looks. The ultimate modern dandy, Benjamin is launching his own menswear collection for fall, and we just got back from his showroom where he walked us through the collection. No photos are available yet, but we can tell you, the collection is inspiring! English traditionalism meets all-American flair. Sportier pieces are inspired by American football team uniforms from the 1930s. More tailored pieces suggest another era when men valued their style, wore clothes that were built to last. The collection was designed by Benjamin himself and each piece reflects his aesthetic -- very well made, with attention to detail and quality. Italian fabric woven shirts with white collars, thick and snuggly slim fit sweaters, wool trousers, plus fours, and vests, a corduroy suit, and really great outerwear pieces round out the collection. Benjamin Bixby debuts at retail in the fall. We can't wait!
NY Times Fashion Editor Bruce Pask has proclaimed next season the season of the chunky boot. He writes for The Moment blog: "We saw it in Europe at Jil Sander and Ferragamo, but seeing it at Marc makes it official. The shoe of next season is the chunky-soled Doc Martens-inspired lace up. It looked great worn here with slightly short pants in a very post-punk, new-wave way. There was a lot of conspicuous ankle flashing. Now, with my spindle shanks, I don’t think I’m going try these at home, but they sure will look cool on those L-train kids.”
Getty Images/IMG
NYC Womenswear Recap (Style.com)
New York Fashion Week: The Apple Fights Back (Portfolio)
NYC Retailers Court Int'l Shoppers (Int'l Herald Tribune)
MAGIC Takes a Day Off: Show shifts to 3 days (DNR)
High Style at Premium Berlin (Sportswearnet)
Stockholm Fashion Week (Sportswearnet)
Updated menswear classics was the look among the crowd at the Tim Hamilton presentation on Monday night. Lots of tweed, ties, and tartans as well as vests, toggle coats and military looks. Neckwear was practically a must with ties, bow ties and scarves on almost everyone. We particularly like Miguel Enamorado's look (pictured left)-- the small fur scarf and sleek overcoat was right on with Hamilton's slightly louche, but ultra-chic vibe.
Lots of photos after the jump!
We didn't expect the average dude to embrace Thom Browne's insane asylum theme at his show earlier this week, but Thom, it's pretty bad when seasoned editors like Sthe IHT's Suzy Menkes and NYT's Bruce Pask are mocking you! We love your style! Why don't you keep the productions more simple so we can focus on the clothes?????
photo The Moment
Tim Hamilton showed us his romantic side today at his fall 2008 presentation. The designer took his inspiration from legendary dancer Vaslav Nijinski (pictured after the jump) and there was plenty of active/ballet inspired references in the form of leggings, tech fabrics and layered looks. Hair and makeup were also reminiscent of the ballet star. Knits are still a strong classification, and the grandpa sweaters and fisherman cardigans looked right over turtlenecks. Soft leather jackets had a sporty edge and blazers were carefully constructed.
Hamilton launched his first suit collection this season as well. Emphasizing better fabrications, classic tailoring and craftsmanship, Hamilton has teamed up with an Italian manufacturer to ensure that each piece is high quality. Taking a radical approach to the classic suit, Hamilton applied elastic banding to the wrists and cuffs for a sportwear effect that looked fresh. No wonder he's the darling of the CFDA and one of the rising stars of American menswear.
More pics from today's presentation, as well as look book pics after the jump.
SUITS
LOOK BOOK PICS
Oak, one of Brooklyn's hottest boutiques has finally set roots in Manhattan. We haven't been down there yet, so we leave it to Refinery29 to tell us what its like... "Tucked away on a narrow corridor between Lafayette and the Bowery, Oak's newest space—its location, as well as its merchandise—is emblematic of the owners' continuing interest in thriving on the fringes. "We tend to buy clothes that are a little bit different, a bit borderline...art-inspired, or formally unusual, but always wearable." Likewise, the store's interior—sparsely furnished and punctuated with a sculptural central fixture—blurs the boundaries between gallery and retail space. Oak's NoLita location will carry most of the labels currently available at the Williamsburg store (Ksubi, Alice Ritter, Jeremy Scott, and the like), so Manhattanites seeking retail therapy no longer have to brave the trek out to North 8th Street. And Brooklynites suffering from outer-borough abandonment needn't fear: (Owner Louis) Terline assures us that he and (co-owner Jeff)Madalena live in Brooklyn, have their offices in Brooklyn, and intend to stay there. "In fact," he says, "we're really hoping that the Williamsburg store will become an incubator for our more adventurous schemes, the place where we'll take bigger risks and figure out what works."
Oak, 28 Bond Street (between Bowery & Lafayette)
Jil Sander isn’t the only label that Raf Simons is designing for this year—British sportswear brand Fred Perry has tapped the avant-garde Belgian designer to create a capsule collection. 
More pics after the jump.
(men.style.com)
ROBERT GELLER
RAG & BONE
Scott Sternberg's collection for Band Of Outsiders features skinny skinny pieces that are loaded with historical references and authentic detailing. Sternberg headed over to Scotland to seek out a company called Glenmac. And you can see the inspiration. The collection is loaded with tartan, hunting fabrics, and a highlight-- a new Sperry collabo boat shoe now in a boot.
More pics after the jump.
(men.style.com)
The British film Withnail & I served as one of the inspirations for Obedient Sons and Daughters latest collection. According to Wikipedia the film depicts the lives and misadventures of two "resting" (struggling and unemployed) actors in 1969 London. They are the flamboyant, hedonistic and alcoholic Withnail (Grant); and "I" (named "Marwood" in the published screenplay but never named in the film or its credits, played by McGann), his more level-headed, responsible and worrisome friend and the movie's narrator. Withnail sets the tone for the friendship with his cynicism, self-pity and constant drinking.
The Y3 show is always one of the hottest tickets in town so we headed over to Pier 40 to see the latest collection. The space was transformed into an ice paradise. Huge walls made of ice bricks set the stage, and every guest who came received handwarmers and a snuggly Y3 blanket. Nevermind that the Superbowl was about to start- the space was PACKED. The show was both avant garde and very wearable. An elongated silhouette was the big story with oversized drapey trousers featuring dropped crotches, suits with extra long jackets, and chunky sweaters that hit mid thigh worn with slim fitting khakis. As a styling note: as in several other shows we've seen, scarves and neck detailing are superimportant. And, charms and wallet chains still look hot.
(PICS: STYLE.COM)
Designer Swaim Hutson showed that he has come a long way from his roots as a designer of a rock and roll collection. The presentation last night for Obedient Sons & Daughters proved why Hutson and his wife Christina were named among the top menswear designers in America last week by GQ and the CFDA. The collection for men, and now women showed us what the future can look like- a blend of traditional menswear fabrics and silhouettes -- wool continental jackets, pinstripe woven shirts-- with hunting elements such as riding jackets, hunting trousers with patched knees, and neck ties all styled and cut with a rock and roll attitude. the collection's connections to the music scene are still apparent-- the clothes still had a cutting edge that would suit any rock star-- leather MC jackets, pointy boots, and a surprising brocade smoking jacket that was reminiscent of Chinese waiter uniforms from the 70s.. The girls looked sexy in a feminized version of the menswear. Shorts worn with blazers or tuxedo jackets and sexy woven shirts looked just right for now. Windowpane plaid full trousers looked super sexy with mohair gloves. As a styling element, we are loving the ribbon bow ties worn by both men and women throughout the show.
More pics after the jump.
