January 31, 2008



BRANDS WE LOVE: SOPHOMORE NYC

Sometimes, I need a break from the avant-garde. I mean, while I am an advocate for looking stylish at all times, I don't think that you need to be a fashion victim to do so. Because let's face it, we all have those days when we just want to throw on a pair of skinnies and a tee, but should we have to look terrible because its an "off day"? I think not.


And apparently, neither does Chrissie Miller of Sophomore. With comfy basics in breathable fabrics, the line imbues the laid back vibe of LES with items that are so simple, they are timeless. Teaming up with Madeleine von Froomer (whose last stint was at Proenza Schouler) the collective churns out effortlessly cool items with a 70s flare. And with a look book featuring everyone's favorite underage scene girl, Cory Kennedy (oh, and Bijou Phillips,) they've definitely got their target market all figured out. Look out C&C, there's a new sheriff in town!

-Virginia Jackson-Reed

 


 

 



NEWS: RICHARD CHAI TO LAUNCH MENSWEAR

Richard Chai, the acclaimed women’s wear designer, is debuting a men’s line for fall. The move is a first for his almost-four-year-old label, but Chai is in fact quite seasoned in men’s wear, having been creative design director of Tse. Prior to that, he was the design director for Marc Jacobs’ men’s and women’s collections and launched the Marc by Marc Jacobs men’s line. 


Chai’s growth strategy includes offering precollections and accessories for women, working with Baron & Baron on branding and with Robert Burke Associates on merchandising, and launching men’s wear. His brother Edward Chai co-owns the influential boutique Odin, which is another source of insight.
Whereas his women’s designs are a synthesis of ideas, moods and spirits, Chai says his men’s wear reflects his own style and those of his friends. 

“I played a lot with luxe fabrics and distressed them so they feel more approachable,” he says. The line is decidedly more casual than his women’s wear, but also quite technically advanced in construction—especially the knitwear, owing to the expertise he developed at Tse, the cashmere house. One cardigan, for example, goes from jersey to reverse jersey and has subtle shirring down the front.  (via DNR)



EVENTS: GQ'S BEST NEW MENSWEAR DESIGNERS IN AMERICA

GQ magazine, in conjunction with the CFDA have created The Best New Menswear Designers in America project to recognize the rising stars of American design. the designers of six collections: Obedient Sons, Rag & Bone, Engineered Garments, Steven Alan, Gilded Age & Spurr were selected by GQ as finalists for the competition and are featured in the February 2008 issue of the magazine. The winner will receive $50,000 in cash and the opportunity to create a capsule collection for Levi's. There was tons of great style at last night's party to kick off the project.

We've got pics after the jump.

 

 

 

There were some great fashion statements at the event, which was held in an unused loft space in an office building in midtown. The party was filled with a veritable who's who in the menswear industry with all the top buyers, editors, designers, stylists and models in attendance. Below are some of the best looks, broken into trends.  

NECKWEAR

       

RUMPLED CHIC

   

STRIPES

             

SLEEK BLAZERS & JACKETS

        



Q&A WITH MIKA

NY Times blog The Moment spoke with the rising British pop star Mika on the eve of his performance at the NRJ music awards in Cannes, France, where the bouncy, mop-headed singer had plenty of reasons to celebrate. To name a few: he’s about to kick off a short North American tour, Marc Jacobs named a bag from his spring collection “Mika,” and the 24 year old, Lebanese-born singer recently received his first Grammy nomination, for Best Dance Recording. To hear what the excitement is all about for yourself, check him out February 2nd when he plays at the Terminal 5 in New York. The last time we checked, tickets were sold out. Maybe Marc has a stash of tickets…Read the full interview here.  


 


FALL 08 PREVIEW: OAK

The guys over at the Brooklyn boutique Oak have a LOT going on this week. They're finally bringing some of their Brooklyn style goodness to Manhattan and opening a boutique on Bond Street tomorrow. The store will carry many of the same brands that the Brooklyn location carries, including the house label of "basics" that includes amazing shredded, bleached jeans, great plaid wovens and some pleather. We've got a preview of Oak's fall/winter 2008 collection after the jump.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

      


STREET PICS: THE FACEHUNTER IN STOCKHOLM, SWEDEN

The Facehunter is out in Stockholm documenting the fashion scene on the streets out there during Stockholm Fashion Week. Lots of black and gray, lots of exaggerated shapes and sizes, and tons of cute statement eyewear. There's a real style movement that takes inspiration from the '80s New Wave thing happening on ths streets in Sweden. A lot of these kids look just like the kids in my high school class of '87.

More pics after the jump.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

January 30, 2008



RUNWAY: SWEDISH FASHION WEEK

Stockholm Fashion Week just wrapped, and since the Scandinavian capital is leading the market right now, we thought we'd check out what the top designers are putting out for fall/winter. Of course designers from the land of the midnight sun are obsessed with a somber palette, and gray and black ruled, with color accents. A key item is sure to be the all black suit. Experimentation with shape and volume was an important direction and we saw huge overcoats, oversized bags, and lots of chunky knits paired with skinny pants and slim trousers, an evolved preppy style is important, as are workwear influences.

We've got pics from Whyred, Hope (pictured left), Velour, Filippa K  & Acne after the jump.

Check this space later for more on Stockholm.

 

 

 

 

photos: Cafe.se

WHYRED

     

 VELOUR

        

HOPE

         

 FILIPPA K

      

ACNE

           

January 29, 2008



DISCONTINUED: LACES NY SHUTS ITS DOORS

Guess that ladies don't love limited-edition sneakers quite as much as men do: Laces, a women's-only sneaker boutique at 252 Mott Street between Houston and Prince Streets, has said goodbye to the retail world. When we walked by the space earlier today, all the Nikes and Reeboks had been cleared out and a "For Rent" sign marked the glass storefront; their website has also been wiped clean. The shop lasted just over two years, which isn't terribly bad for Nolita. (Via Racked)


CORSO COMO X TO OPEN IN SEOUL

Our friends at Selectism have tipped us off that one of the coolest stores in the world, Milan-based boutique 10 Corso Como will be opening a second location in Seoul. The new location will be opening its doors in March 2008. The Milan flagship opened in 1991, and has led the concept shop movement, housing a store, hotel, book shop, gallery and restaurant. At the left you see a first shot of the exterior of the new store! (via Designboom/ Selectism)



KIM JONES TO DESIGN DUNHILL

We hear from WWD that one of our favorite British designers, known for his eponymous edgy sportswear collection, and his collabo with Umbro,  is joining luxury brand Dunhill as creative director. He will be shutting down his own label, which has been one of our favorites in recent years. "For me, this is a great opportunity to bring home the message I have constantly projected of London as the men's wear capital of the world," Jones told WWD, "Dunhill is perfect as Alfred was a true modernist. It is a privilege to work with an English luxury goods house specializing in men's wear."


HALSTON TO OFFER NEXT DAY DELIVERY FROM RUNWAY

Fashion is getting super fast. Now that the masses are able to view fashion shows on the internet, they want the new styles faster than ever. They dont want to wait for next season's deliveries. They want the new styles when they see them. When Halston relaunches next week at NY Fashion Week, 2 of the designer's runway looks will be available for sale on Net A Porter right after the show, reports WWD. There's even same day delivery in NYC. If this works, it will change the way we do business, and help to stop copiers and counterfeiters in their tracks.

 

 

January 28, 2008



RETAIL: BLOOMINGDALE'S NEW MEN'S FLOOR

Bloomingdale's 59th street store's subway entrance now opens up on to  a newly rejuvenated men's contemporary floor.  The renovation seems to have been inspired by the success of the Soho store, with selections by downtown faves like Trovata and Vince making fuller statements on the uptown floor. This is the first step in a total overhaul of the Bloomingdales menswear dept, reports The Shophound.

We took a trek uptown to see the improvements for ourselves and the first phase of the revamp is head and shoulders above the old men's floor. It's a much more inviting shopping experience. We can't wait to see it when it's completed!



HEADLINE NEWS ROUNDUP

 Target in Deal to offer Shaun White Apparel (DNR)

Former Topshop Brand Director Jane Shepherdson buys fashion chain Whistles (Drapers)

Staffers at Rodale Inc. are wondering if more departures are to come after three well-liked top executives left the company.  (WWD)

Higher Cotton Prices Send Textile Mills into a Tailspin (The Hindu)

7 strategies to cope with the economic downturn, courtesy of The Luxury Institute (Agendainc.com)

 +46-- Stockholm's Progressive Trade Show starts tomorrow (+46)

No Fashion Week Show for Heatherette (NY Daily News)

Project 501: Opportunity to Redesign a Fashion Icon (Fibre2fashion)

Suits: They Are A-Changin' (The Independent)

January 26, 2008



(CAPSULE) ON REFINERY

Refinery29 came down to the (capsule) show last week and did a great report on the show. From Krane bags, to Endovanera, Pegleg, YMC and more, the Refinery gang covered some of the show's hot spots. Read it all here.

January 24, 2008



RUNWAY: YOKO DEVEREAUX IN NYC

We didn't realize how much we missed Yoko Devereaux's fashion shows until we went to the fall/winter 08 debut on Monday. It was the first show for Yoko Devereaux in several seasons and the venue was packed with the usual gang of scenesters, editors, buyers and celebrity friends like Alan Cumming, Sophia Lamar and Ana Matronic.

The collection, designed under the guidance of creative director Andy Salzer, featured graphics by artist Charles Lutz, as well as cardigans, skinny ties, super skinny pants and chic hoodies in a palette of basic black, white, slate blue and gray for the guy who wants to toe the line between cutting edge and just plain cool.

We've got pics after the jump.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

   

 

 



CAPSULE SHOW: 3 FLOORS OF GOODNESS

Word on the street is that the (capsule) show was the highlight of men’s fashion week in NY and the only show that mattered for people looking for menswear that was fresh and inspiring. Special thanks to everyone who is part of our growing community-- all the buyers, editors, designers, sponsors, and other guests that came through. The mood at the show was reinterpreting quality menswear basics for a more fashion forward consumer. There were plenty of slim trousers, cardigans and woven shirts to be found, but all had a twist to them, whether it be contrast fabric lining or unusual button treatments. Directional footwear, evolved streetwear, unique eyewear and accessories and handcrafted denim rounded out the assortment.  

There's a new movement in men's fashion, and (capsule) is at its forefront.

More after the jump.


 

The show was AWESOME! But don’t take our word for it, check these early reports…

http://www.freshnessmag.com/v4/2008/01/24/capsule-show-nyc/
http://www.selectism.com/posts/archive/2008/january/23/capsule_show_krane_design/index.htm

 http://www.highsnobiety.com/home/the_daily_news/archive/2008/january/23/capsule_show_nike_tech_pack_spring_08/index.htm

 

 And here’s what wgsn had to say…
INSPIRATIONAL CAPSULE EXCITES WITH FOCUS ON SILHOUETTE AND OUTERWEAR
Its untraditional setting and exciting list of brands made Capsule one of the most inspirational and talked-about trade shows at New York's Angel Orensanz Foundation Center for the Arts this week. Exhibitors and visitors showed equal excitement and interest over the wide autumn/winter 2008 selection of directional men's premium product.
Following a strong debut for spring/summer 2008, organiser BPMW wanted to keep the show very intimate, emphasising the notion of a "fashion community", where selected brands, buyers and editors could share their vision for premium product.
Chris Corrado, sales director of BPMW, highlighted the importance of adding more depth and layers to the show versus adding more brands.
The show emphasised the ongoing trend of easy and sincere fashion. Classic shapes with a lot of detail confirmed the continuous focus on the overall silhouette. Skinny bottoms and fitted dress shirts are complemented by oversized outer and knitwear. Outerwear has become an important part of numerous collections, as there is a growing interest in the segment - wool, leather, waxed canvas and nylon are the most important fabrics.
Fabric braiding, hooded dress shirts and layering are among the most inspiring trends spotted at the show, while shades of grey, black and beige confirmed the continued casual formalwear influence.
 

January 20, 2008



SEE YOU AT CAPSULE! TUESDAY & WEDNESDAY

January 19, 2008



PARIS RUNWAY: KRIS VAN ASSCHE

There were washing machines on the runway of the Kris Van Assche show and no one could figure out why-- until the finale- the models began to strip and throw their clothes in the wash. The collection was casual, and cool-- high fashion staple pieces for the coolest guy you know-- skinny jeans, skinny lapels, skinny ties, silver accents, an awesome scarf, the perfect trench... More pics after the jump...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

(photos: men.style.com)

                   


REQUIRED READING: MARC ECKO- BILLIONAIRE POSTER CHILD

Wanna learn some tips on "developing the billionaire mindset"? Just ask Marc Ecko... At least, that's what Entrepreneur magazine did for the cover story of its February issue, called "Inside the Billionaire's World." Pick up a copy or click here to read what's it's like to be Marc... The struggles, the scrappiness, the painting factory, the Willy Wonka complex and more.

 



COUNTDOWN TO CAPSULE: NO MAS

The best labor is always the labor of love, and I'm sure no designer knows this better than Chris Isenberg of No Mas. The journalist turned sportswear designer stuck with what he knew when he started the label back in 2004. Creating items that are neither trend fad, nor trend driven, he has been able to parlay his passion for sports into a label that knows no age or season.

But don't be confused; although the brand is stocked by stores notorious for carrying some of the biggest names in streetwear, not by any means does the label fall into that category. He doesn’t ‘do’ streetwear. Actually, its quite the opposite, the Oxford graduate tells me of his line, whose very marketable nostalgia keeps orders pouring in from boutiques like Bodega, and The Reed Space.

When Chris left the magazine world in 2002, not being able to find an outlet for his tone, and the subject matter that appealed most to him. It wouldn't be until 2003 when he found a new medium with which to tell his stories: 
"During that time, I found this old picture of Muhammad Ali when he was Cassius Clay,right before the Sonny Liston fight in 1964. He was wearing this t-shirt that had this script "Cassius Clay" on it that I just felt was so cool, and I thought it was so much a part of this amazing moment-- and then, the name was so charged. So, I felt like it was really a part of the story, and I just wanted to have one of those shirts for myself to wear."
So, he enlisted the help of a graphic designer friend, who then reproduced the design for he and a few friends to wear. Says Chris, "It was really clear from the response, (walking around the street) that people wanted it." This was when it dawned on him that in his mind, he had stored a wealth knowledge of sports history, and that through his line he could connect in a special way to the legions of other sports fanatics out there. No Mas is not about mass appeal or marketing ploys. The colors, typography and graphics he chooses have more to do with the look of the decade, and making sure the essence of that moment in history is captured in the garment. For the Fall 2008 collection, Chris chose to let the wind take him in a slightly different direction, citing influences from the '20s, '30s, and '40s:
"When you take script from the '20s, some kind of hand-drawn font that was on a book cover, (and you try to translate that) its not really 'gonna go with super-pop, 80s, kind of colors. And I think that the stuff if more tonal; its more stripped down, its simpler. As I said, I don't ever consider myself to be a 'streetwear designer.' You know, that label (that sometimes) they put on a brand because of the stores they sell in. I think streetwear, a lot of times, the way they give value to the customer is by giving them the most color that they possibly can; the most 'color', the most 'different females' they possibly can. I wouldn't wear stuff like that. And then (stores like) Dr. Jay's knock them off; it gets clowned... I definitely did not set out to make clowned... I definitely did not set out to make streetwear. I'm not a purchaser of 'quote, unquote' streetwear. I'm not from the street."
But most importantly, its a label without age demographics. "We have sixty-year-old dudes who buy all the stuff on our site," he says of the line's widespread appeal. Continues Chris, "the age spectrum runs the gamut." Which makes sense when you consider all of the events in sports history that the label touches on. The brand's slogan is the thrill of victory and the ecstasy of defeat, which is exactly what it's all about; No Mas is about the rich history of sports, and the amazing stories that follow. "If I had to try and make something that I didn't like, I would leave making clothing. If it's not interesting to me on that level, I wouldn't want to do it."

 -Virginia Jackson-Reed

 
 
 




January 18, 2008



COUNTDOWN TO CAPSULE: NOVE

For the man who wants to be subtly stylish and comfortable, Nove has a great line of classic men's tops. Most known for their simple button downs with details like single left chest pockets with small button closures and stitched seaming, the brand has also expanded to knit- and outerwear. The timeless designs in pinstripes are perfect for transitioning from work to a night on the town, while the more casual plaid designs are great for weekend. Nove is making its (capsule) show debut Jan 22 and 23.

Posted by Laura Kenkel

 

 

photo from tobi.com



PARIS RUNWAY: NUMBER (N) INE

The '90s revivial is on and popping! At the Number (N)ine show in Paris yesterday, designer Takahiro Miyashita paid homage to Kurt Cobain with a collection that was full-on grunge. Called My Own Private Portland, Miyashita gave us layers of mismatched flannels, thrift store sweaters, Elmer Fudd hats,  plaid shirts,  shabby knits, busted shoes, and even moccasins that took us waaay back. We've got pics after the jump.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 (photos:men.style.com)

 

                

 



BYE BYE PEEWEE PANTS

The floods of fashion have receded! PeeWee pants are out- full trousers are back, reports a happy Armand Limnander from Paris. Limnnander reports on all the trouser trends from the European runways. He writes, for The Moment, "At shows as diverse as Gianfranco Ferré, Yves Saint Laurent and Louis Vuitton, trousers were long (imagine that!) and decidedly full…"

 

 

 

 

 

 

 (Photo: Louis Vuitton, men.style.com)



CULTURE:THE SARTORIALIST'S STREET PICS ON VIEW

Scott Schuman – better known as The Sartorialist – has emerged over the last few years as the leading photographer of the blogosphere. Since September 2005, on his blog The Sartorialist  he has taken some really compelling shots of people with great style around the world. We've featured his work on this site from time to time. We like his emphasis on traditional men's looks. With photos running on his own site as well as men.style.com and a column in GQ, Schuman has been selected as one of TIME Magazine's top 100 design influencers. Now an exhibition at the Danziger Projects Gallery highlights his work not just as documentaries of fashion but as art. “The photographs are artfully composed, light-infused, penetrating portraits of how fashion manifests itself in the real world as opposed to the runway - inclusive of all ethnicities, economic classes, age, and sex,” reads a press release. The show is sponsored by style.com—Schuman’s employer.

Danziger Projects, 521 West 26th Street, NYC



NEWS ROUNDUP: HEADLINES YOU DONT WANT TO MISS

Pharell to Unveil Louis Vuitton jewelry line (WWD)

Diesel Launches Home Collection (SI)

New licensing deals for Antik Denim,Yanuk brands  (MR)

True Religion sees Q4 sales up 75.9%  (MR)

Ven den Bosch Retiring at H&M (DNR)

Barney's opens in Vegas (WWD)

The Global War on Counterfeit Luxury (Agenda)

January 17, 2008



BBlessing To Launch Online Shopping!

Now if you can't make it to Orchard Street to shop at Bblessing, the store has launched a web site that brings the store to you. There's menswear, an ecelctic range of music, literature and art. Roll up your sleeves and get shopping! Bblessing is launching their e-commerce site on Friday, and are running a huge 40% off sale on all our favorite brands. Snap up key items from Adam Kimmel, Christophe Lemaire, Obedient Sons, Patrik Ervell, Opening Ceremony, SNS Herning,Surface To Air, Yoko Devereaux an more! Just click here to go to the site.

January 16, 2008



COUNTDOWN TO CAPSULE: SIMON MILLER JEANS

Simon Miller jeans will be showing its fall/winter collection at (capsule) next week. Our friends at SlamXHype are big fans of the brand, and wrote this piece: Simon Miller was the owner of a retail store in Auckland, New Zealand, Fabric, stockists of Comme Des Garcons, Helmut lang, Original Fake and others, but also famous for its wide range of denim for men and women, from Dior Homme, to PRPS, its a one stop shop for denim shoppers. Still not content with what was available on the market, Miller moved his operation to Los Angeles to create the perfect denim line for men, offering just one straight leg, selvedge style, but in 10 washes, the line is now available in numerous high end botuiques and department stores across the US. Check out Simon Miller Jeans.  (via SlamxHype)

 

 

 



MILAN TREND ROUNDUP

From outerwear to chunky knits to ethnic patterns and lots of layering, Milan gave us plenty of food for thought. We've got a quick trend recap after the jump!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 (photo: D Squared via men.style.com)

 

OUTRAGEOUS OUTERWEAR

 

D Squared

 

Gucci                               Dolce & Gabbana

 

Versace                         Dolce & Gabbana

 

CHUNKY KNITS

  

 D Squared                                     Dolce & Gabbana

 

ETHNIC LOOKS

 

Gucci                                          Alexander McQueen

 

LONDON STREET

  

D Squared

Costume National

 

MOTORCYCLE JACKET

 

Gucci                                                                Versace

 



REQUIRED READ: BEST OF BRANDS 2007

SlamxHype has really impressed us with a new feature called The Best of Brands 2007. The editors intereviewed 19 of the most influential people in the neo-streetwear scene, like Fraser Cooke, Chris Gibbs and Jared Reynolds about what their favorite brands are and why. Not surprisingly, Visvim got plenty of shout outs, with brands like WTaps, Phenomenon, Undercover and Junya Watanabe getting plenty of attention as well. It's a great read. Get on it and see who the style leaders of the evolution of streetwear will be for 2008.

 

 (Photo: phenomenon on SlamxHype)



RUNWAY FALL 08: DSQUARED IN MILAN

At yesterday's DSquared show, ski met ska as the Caten twins sent looks down the runway that merged a London street style sensibility with the warm, active looks of a ski bum.  The boys created an elaborate backdrop to set the mood: a wintry Boystown with fire escapes, a tavern, and a blistering snowstorm, as reported in men.style.com. Bleached denim, leather MC jackets, skinny braces and tiny white button front shirts set the London mood while luxurious parkas and chubbies, ski pants and chunky sweaters were all about the slopes. The result was less camp and more saleable than past collections, for sure. We've got pics after the jump!

 

 

 

 

 

 photos: men.style.com

  

                    

 

 

January 15, 2008



COUNTDOWN TO CAPSULE: PA:NUU

If there's one thing that usually renders me particularly vexed, its pretentious fashion. Fashion should be fun, because at the end of the day, what's in this week, will be out the next. Ah fashion, a fickle friend indeed. Besides, when you're young (as am I), you might as well enjoy your neon, and lamé while you can still pull it off. And if there's one label that knows how to have a good time, that label would certainly be Pa:nuu.

The Danish label, brainchild of Catharine Nielsen and Jacob Hoilund, doesn't use "analysis, market research, color scales, trend boards, or the likes thereof." Where they do pull from however are the 80s, acid-pop, and bold prints that would give Jem a run for her money.


When asked what inspired the Spring/ Summer 2008 collection, Jacob told me " The inspiration for the SS08 collection can be narrowed down to a few words... LA, 80's electro pop culture and suntan." Which is not so hard to envision when you look at the collection which is rampant with wild prints, loads of leggings, and more neon than the Vegas Strip. But of course, let's not forget the fact that they already have two collections for Topshop under their belt-- or that they use Joey Elgersma's crew, the Clubkids (arguably Europe's definitive hipsters) as models. Hey, if they keep this up, they'll have a future brighter than their blue lamé leggings!

-Virginia Jackson-Reed

 

 PA:NUU