July 24, 2006



PROJECT SHOW RECAP

The hot trends from Project NY

 

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The hot trends from Project NY

Project NY came and went with mixed reviews. While a great array of retailers were in attendance, and business was brisk, many left the show feeling uninspired.  There was nothing new knocking everyone's socks off. This may be good news for retail, which prefers to play it safe. But where's the direction in the premium market?

HOT BRANDS: Corpus was the clear favorite for most directional label at the show, with its new take on tailoring, fresh silhouettes and amazing looks that blend function, street wear aesthetics and runway styling. PRPS was the favorite denim brand, taking a new direction with its embellished denim, metallic knits and '80s style tees.

KEY TRENDS: New Wave looks, heritage brands, directional graphics, and loads of color lead the market.

Key classifications include:

Skinny jeans- we know you know about this one but it's a trend you cant miss.  Nudie Jeans set the standard here. J Brand and Tsubi are gaining momentum. Hause of Howe takes it a bit more mainstream.

Shorts- Whether they're '70s style shorties or more modern, just above the knee styles, shorts are a must have for s/s 2007.   Don't miss Canterbury of New Zealand, Ever, and The Other Side of Kyoto.

White- from jackets, to pants to lightweight knits, or mixed with navy blue, crisp white looks sharp for summer.  Check out Filippa K, Cockpit and Warhol Factory x Levi's.

Deep V-necks- The trend is here now, and is only going deeper next spring.  

Sport Luxe- Mixing classic athletic looks with new colors and prints, and using high end fabrications for a fashion forward edge.  Think Umbro by Kim Jones, Rosasen, Creative Recreation.

Color - from fruity brights to Life Savers colors, bright tops, overdyed jeans and matching overdyed solid colored canvas sneakers we're seeing color everywhere next spring. Springcourt, Vault by Vans, Rosasen, Canterbury of NZ, Alpana Bawa, DC Shoes.

 

July 23, 2006



HOT SHOP

KARMALOOP.COM


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It sells one of the widest array of streetwear labels on the web and gets over 1 million hits a month. Karmaloop.com is a force to be reckoned with. From Triple 5 Soul to Harajuku Lovers, Adidas, Staple Ice Cream and WESC, Karmaloop has it all, for men and women around the world who love streetwear.

Coming soon: Karmaloop unveils the Kazbah- a section where young designers can sell their own clothes, art and designs on Karmaloop, eBay style. The site provides young designers with exposure to its huge audience, while the designer updates and manages his or her site, and handles all shipping and customer follow up. The section is highly juried. Interested designers can check the site for more information.



Q&A with Jeff Ng (aka jeffstaple)

Legendary graphic designer Jeff Staple, owner of Staple Design, and Lower East Side boutique Reed Space tells us what's inspiring him now.

 

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WATM: What city is inspiring you now and why?
JS: Berlin. Feels like NYC 15 yrs ago. Architecturally old, but creatively new.
WATM: What are you currently working on?
JS:  Opening Reed Space Japan.
WATM: What new products have you seen that you really like?
JS: Children's furniture and clothing.
WATM: What trade shows does Staple Design attend?
JS:  Just finished Bread and Butter. No other ones. We don't really attend tradeshows unless we are offered, umm, "discounts".
WATM: What brands do you like now?
JS:  Swiss Army, North Face Purple Label. FCRB, W) Taps, Nike, Headporter, Acronym. Eastpak Apparel. 
WATM: What trends do you like for s/s 2007?
JS:  Collaborative anagram wordplay to the 10th power.

July 21, 2006



REQUIRED READING

LINKS TO ARTICLES YOU NEED TO READ

 

US Trendsetters Go On Strike (The Onion)

Americana Themes Prevail in Cockpit USA's Debut Collection for Fall 2006 (ABOUT.COM)

Stop The Insanity! Introducing The Size 00 Jean (DAILY NEWS)

Can Terry Richardson make Lee Jeans Cool Down Unda? (SYDNEY MORNING HERALD)

TV Brings High Fashion Down to the Everyday (USA TODAY)

 March of Penguin: A Retro Brand Goes Upmarket  (men.style.com)

California Stars: A Review of Project New York (men.style.com)



CHRISTOPHE LEMAIRE IS BACK!

We hear from DNR that French men's wear designer Christophe Lemaire will be reviving his eponymous fashion label.

 

christophe lemaire.jpg French Vogue has called him the "King of Utilitarian Chic." Lemaire has been the creative force behind Lacoste's amazing resurgence over the past few years, and is now ready to turn to his own brand again.  As reported, the line, which will be called Lemaire, will feature unsex styles, and target an urban dandy.  Lemaire plans to open stores in Paris and Tokyo later this year.

July 20, 2006



EUROPEAN FASHION UPDATE: MILAN

A roundup of key looks from the men's wear shows in Milan.

 

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Milan was all about a light, airy palette, a resort feel, and relaxed looks. For many designers, black and white was the dominant palette. WHile many of the collections were criticized for being too non-commercial, some key items/trends did emerge.

Shorts-- the ultimate key item for next spring, shorts appeared on the Milan runways in every length, as well as worn with suit jackets. While just above the knee seems to be the safest length, short shorts abounded, for the more daring.

Shine- from plastic fabrics to metallic looks and sequins, and even lurex yarn, men layered a bit of shine in whith their summer looks in masculine colors ranging from neutrals, to vivid blues or browns.

Color: Cobalt blue was the strongest emerging color at the shows, while pale grays and white served as a great base palette.

Our favorite Milan shows included

J Lindeberg

D Squared

Alexander McQueen

Miu Miu

D&G

Neil Barrett

You can see all the collections at men.style.com

 

 

July 06, 2006



THE BIG STORY- RONDA WALKER GETS OUT OF THE POOL

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We've been hearing rumors that Ronda Walker, founder of the groundbreaking Pool Trade Show was exiting the show. DNR confirmed it today. Adios Ronda! and good luck!

 



NIGO TEAMS UP WITH VUITTON

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Looks like Marc Jacobs is vying for membership in the Billionaire Boys Club.  

We hear from Hypebeast that Nigo, Japan's king of street culture, and creative director of cult brand A Bathing Ape, has teamed up with Marc Jacobs, artistic director of  Louis Vuitton to design a limited edition cel phone strap. Could there be a cooler pair for a collabo?

In true hard-to-get Nigo style, only 1500 pieces were made, and they were given out as gifts to the lucky ones who attended LV's recent show in Tokyo. You cant buy these things! We havent checked yet, but we're sure you can find one or two on eBay.

Photo credit- Secret Base via Hypebeast

We also hear that Pharrell, Nigo's partner in his Billionaire Boys Club fashion line, is going to star in an upcoming Louis Vuitton campaign and be the spokesman for the LV luggage and bags. Pharrell stars in the campaign alongside supermodels Kate Moss and Naomi Campbell.  His next CD is due out in July.



STORE OF THE WEEK- ODIN

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We think that Odin has one of the best retail concepts in NYC right now. Specializing in men's wear, Odin offers very distinctive labels to the discerning men of NYC who are into premium streetwear.

Odin opened at 328 East 11th Street in 2004, and opened a second location at 199 Lafayette Street in SoHo earlier this year.

With a highly curated brand roster that includes Umbro by Kim Jones, Engineered Garments, Rogues Gallery, Trovata, Nice Collective, and S2W8, Odin has a lock on the most coveted brands.  And, the decor is minimalist, with a manly twist.  Each shop has a different vibe. The LES location is small and almost hidden away on a quiet side street with the feel of a Japanese boutique and a product range that includes home products and books. The SoHo store is larger and has a great Array of accessories.

July 04, 2006



STORE OF THE WEEK: FILSON

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Filson was founded in 1897 in Seattle as an outfitter for trappers and hunters on their way to Alaska to seek their fortune. Thanks to its 100+ year heritage, and amazing faithfulness to detail and authenticity, the brand is still going strong. Filson's bags are a tastemaker favorite, and are sold in limited quantities to fashion influencer stores like Steven Alan and Arrive Miami.

The company recently opened its first freestanding store, in Boulder, CO. The shop looks like a vintage hunting lodge- with amazing wood mission style furniture, bison and moose heads on the walls and a stone fireplace.



REQUIRED READING-

Headlines you don't want to miss

Dandies back on runway for Paris menswear (AP)

Fashion week: Men in high heels (CNN)

The Sartorialist in Milan and Paris (men.style.com)