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Last week in Paris, we had the opportunity to preview Margaret Howell’s SS2010 collection in her new-ish boutique, tucked away in a corner of Place de la Madeleine. While Howell’s reached iconic status in her native Britain, making her easy British sportswear in the UK for 30 years, we are amazed to hear that her name is not well known here in the States. We loved seeing her simple dip dyed indigo shirts, soft khakis, and a great collabo with another iconic British brand—Baracuta. In addition to clothes, the store offers a nice array of wooden, handmade farmhouse furniture.

We’ve got a few pics after the jump.

 

 

Dockers Revival

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There are brands that look old and then there are brands that are old. Put Dockers—the brand Levi Strauss introduced in the eighties to consolidate its century-old khaki business—in the latter category. The company is taking strides to bring a little cool in, primarily by drawing on its most valuable asset: a vault's worth of vintage Levi's samples. Its latest heritage collection, shown at Pitti Uomo, is among the best we've seen. These are clothes with long backstories, of the page-turning variety. For example: Work shirts and khakis are made of Galey & Lord twill—a lighter version of the Cramerton cloth developed in 1931 for WWII uniforms—and woven on the original looms. (The lighter version? That's thanks to an official request from the U.S. Quartermaster, who had to deal with the climate of the South Pacific theater.) Trivia like this should make for a great book someday. Until then, we'll just take the clothes themselves, and look forward to their to-be-confirmed U.S. debut.
dockers.com (men.style)

Opening Ceremony x Pendleton

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The Fashionisto brings us a sneak peek of one of our most anticipated collabos: This fall, Opening Ceremony teams up with all American brand Pendleton to celebrate their hundred year anniversary. Marking Pendleton’s first collaboration is the small collection that takes Pendleton’s signature patterns and pairs them with Opening Ceremony’s undeniably chic cuts. Altogether, the collection is both cozy and vibrant–perfect for this fall. Look forward to the collection hitting stores in August.

 

Lanvin S/S 10

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Lanvin gracefully deposes the status quo in ss10. If I remember correctly, J.Crew’s Jenna Lyons exiled the pleated pant from any man’s closet in a recent issue of Details. Surely, she must be reconsidering her position on the pleat after seeing Lanvin’s high-waisted, pleated pants for Spring 2010. An impressive sight, some even tapered. Boxy silk shorts sat well on hips,  probably convincing many a viewer to put the item high on their ‘to buy’ list.  The Sharpie-tip-thick mustaches were also much appreciated, lending a certain character to the show. (--Antonio Reis, photos via slamxhype.com)

Acne S/S 10

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Acne has looked into its crystal ball and foreseen what they think dapper men should dress in come Spring 2010. Free-flowing and comfortable is what’s up. Maybe the Nordic design house took some notes from the Subconinent’s Mughal-past, as summer scarves and relaxed, slouching pants are major components of the ss10 collection. Colors seem to stick to the neutral pallet, though an occasional happy yellow or faded red appears in some places. Finally, a laid back line to match summer’s carefree attitude. (--Antonio Ries, photos via slamxhype.com)

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PARIS The buzz among buyers at the men’s wear shows in Paris, which ended Sunday, was pared-down elegance — along with reduced prices and tightened brand assortments in tune with the economic crisis.
“We have generally seen designers dropping their prices between 10 to 12 percent, which the market demanded and which was a shrewd move,” said Richard Johnson of Harvey Nichols.
Retailers said budgets for Paris collections were down only modestly, but monies would likely go to fewer labels: ones with proven sell-throughs or strong fashion propositions.
Hard-edged looks were swept away by soft and flowing fabrics, neutral colors, cropped trousers and an air of easy sophistication that pervaded most shows. Fashion houses made an effort to appeal to constrained budgets, and as a result paid more attention to style and pricing in order to be more reassuring, buyers said.
Hirofumi Kurino, from Japan’s United Arrows, said Parisian brands would get bigger play “because they are more interesting…and are very positive about creating new things.”
Among collections winning kudos were Lanvin, Paul Smith, Dries Van Noten, Dior Homme, Yves Saint Laurent, Junya Watanabe, Kris Van Assche and Rick Owens.
(WWD)

After the jump--what buyers had to say about the spring collections

 


 

Henrik Vibskov Archives Sale

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If you happen to be in Berlin this week, don’t miss the Henrik Vibskov Archives 2003 - 2007 Tour. Select pieces from previous collections will be sold at very friendly prices. The Archives will be available in The Henrik Vibskov Boutique in Berlin Mitte at Torstrasse 68.
Wednesday July 1st - Saturday July 11th
Open every day 12:00 - 20:00 (including Sunday)
Grab some archival material from
AW04 - The Frog Collection
SS05 - Firework collection
AW05 - TOTEM Star collection
SS06 - Mirror Collection
AW06 - The Cyclus Collection
SS07 - The Big Wet Shiny Boobies Collection
AW07 - The Land of the Black Carrots Collection
SS08 - The Fantabulous Bicycle collection

Cash only!

 

 

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Menswear Designer Thomas Engel Hart turned a side street in Paris’s Marais district into its old punk inspired self. Beers, cigarettes, pizza, and camera set-ups were in full effect at the shoot. Hart explained that the collection and lookbook is 45% glam rock and 25% Japan. David Bowie was even referenced as an sight for inspiration. He released a new video about his collection, as well. Menswear writer Hywel Davies had this to say about it on ShowStudio: American designer Thomas Engel Hart is certainly back on the menswear radar. Originally launching his menswear line in 2001 his collection resonated globally for its exquisite tailoring and leftfield approach to design. Putting the collection on hold to design Mugler Homme in 2005, Hart re-launched his own name collection in 2008. For his third season since the re-launch Hart decided to create a film to define his new spring / summer collection. Model casting has always been a distinctive pull to Hart's aesthetic and the film depicts the accustomed sinewy youth wearing a signature leather jacket and deconstructed wool vest. Despite the film avoiding literal presentations of several looks, the characteristic nonchalance, adolescence and eccentric characters are all clearly evident. These elements are integral to the modernity of Hart's communication and aesthetic and this film effectively sends the furtive Hart message. Adapting his design concepts to moving image is a natural progression for a designer whose ideas are always at the forefront of innovation and radical thinking. Thomas Engel Hart has a dedicated pack of fashion followers and the new film and collection will do nothing to his taint his image. (image via SlamxHype)

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Hypebeast has given us a look at some of the nicest invitations of Paris Fashion Week, via Wallpaper. We have them after the jump

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The edgy designer role-call continues with Henrik Vibskov. Apart from model craniums giftwapped in synthetic blond hair, the collection looks like an upgraded version of what players can dress their simulated characters with in pc/mac game The Sims. Patterns, colors, and cuts that are fun to try on and look at, but honestly, would you saunter down The Bowery in that? Henrik Vibskov says yes! The ss10 collection is eccentric yet enlightened, puerile yet professional.  Dismantled and integrated into anyone’s closet, Henrik Vibskov will charge a wardrobe with a vernal energy that is hard to come by these days.  (--Antonio Reis, photos via hypebeast.com)

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