TREND WATCH: MELLOW YELLOW

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There was a lot of yellow on the NY runways last week, and it kind of got us thinking about the ultimate man in yellow, Dick Tracy. Always with a jaunty fedora and a dapper suit, and a versatile wristwatch Tracy’s style is right on target this season.

We’ve got pics from the collections after the jump.

(Ryan Macx)

 

 

 

 

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NY FASHION WEEK: GILDED AGE SS09

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CFDA nominated Gilded Age may look basic at first glance, but the designer’s intricate production process is what has intrigued about the SS09 collection from the start. As men.style’s Tim Blanks notes in his review of the show: "A hunting jacket in indigo chambray had been washed to bring out imperfections that added appealing texture. T-shirts were organically dyed in Japan, the intensity of the orange shade achieved by 12 days weathering on a rooftop, the indigo dipped 11 times to get its color right. The result will retail for $280. ‘It’s artisanal work that is appreciated by a few,’ said (designer Stefan) Miljanic with a hint of rue. But such connoisseurs of cloth would surely also appreciate the designer’s double-faced shorts, the interior a gorgeous plaid for the private delight of the wearer. (He truly understands the pleasure of clothes.)

More pics after the jump.

 

 

 (photos:men.style)

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NY RUNWAY: THOM BROWNE

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Tennis anyone? Thom Browne opened his SS09 show with a group of guys in their 70s style tennis whites, and continued the show by riffing on conventional menswear with his shrunken suits, balloon pant jumpsuits,  tiny sweaters and pants dropped below the butt.  Suits cut in tennis racket prints, traditional paisleys and other traditional fabrics were given the Thom Browne treatment, playing with proportion, color and pattern. Rather than a signature bare ankle grazing Church’s for Thom shoes, Browne showed crocheted knee socks. Browne’s shows are consistently peculiar, but his core concepts seem to be what’s driving men’s fashion, from the daring fashion-forward guys to your average man on the street. Silhouettes are getting slimmer, suits are being worn again, and the short suit is practically ubiquitous on the streets of Manhattan. His influence is crystal clear, even if his shows are a bit strange.

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INSPIRATION: MODS, ROCKERS, PUNKS AND SKINHEADS

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Rag & Bone’s collection for SS09 was inspired by Mods, Rockers, Skinheads and the 1997 film about Joy Division, called Control (pictured left). Bands like The Who, The Clash, and The Specials pioneered these looks in the 1960s. The theme has been popping up in many collections, so we thought we’d present you with some pics for inspiration.

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NY RUNWAY: MICHAEL BASTIAN

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 This former retailer keeps proving that he knows what guys want. His SS09 collection was full of great, wearable pieces that looked directional without being too conceptual. A basic palette of manly blues, grays and khakis is punctuated with a poppy poppy color. The collection ranged from nouveau tuxes, to casual summerwear and even bathing suits all modelled on some cute hunky dudes.  

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NEWYORK FASHION WEEK: BEHIND THE SCENES AT TROVATA

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We couldn’t resist posting this pic taken backstage at the Trovatat show, and featured on The Moment, which has been featuring amazing behind-the-scenes at fashion Week pics by the photographer Eric Ray Davidson. Check out his photos here.

 

 

 

 (photo: NYT)

NY RUNWAY: TIM HAMILTON SS09

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Note to show producers: There’s nothing better than a show on a rooftop somewhere, with a chill, relaxed presentation rather than runway. And awesome clothes, and cute boys don’t hurt either. The Tim Hamilton presentation earlier today was all that and more- on the roof of Milk Studios, overlooking the Hudson at sunset, with great people in attendance, and a bunch of cool models just hanging out in the latest creations by TH. Quel collection it was! In a way, it was totally New Wave, with a twist. Black, white and gray dominated but Tim gave us a hot shot of his now-classic Hamilton blue. Fabrics here are key-burnished silks, soft cashmeres and glazed cottons. We fell in love with a beige leather jacket that was slathered in white paint. Another favorite was a silk cardigan with a wrap around sash over a white woven with a ruffle on the inside of the color. Tim seems to be letting loose in his design aesthetic now that he is proving such a major force in the industry and we are loving it! Here’s what he had to say, “My inspiration for spring was to be more streamlined. I wanted architectural lines and color that was Frank Stella inspired. – I just want to continue what does really well for Me.” (CS)

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NY RUNWAY: Y-3 SHOW

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We didnt arrive at the former retail space on 21st and Sixth until 20 after 5:00(the show was called for 5:00), but there was a huge queue snaking around the corner. Very orderly… very fashionable. Lots of Japanese people, and stylist and editors in attendance. The collection offered us the signature atheisure style Y-3 is known for– lots of black, tech fabrics cut into fashion silhouettes, and lots of triple stripe logo treatments. There were a few surprises– we loved the sheer track pants and track jacket, worn as layering pieces. The guys in dresses and skirts weren’t our cup of tea but they certainly received a lot of attention from the audience. With all the sports references and tech fabrics, perhaps this is a collection that’s geared toward the hipster soccer leagues?

 Pics after the jump.

 

 

 

 

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