The 11:o0 pm start time didn’t deter the hundreds of people who packed a tent at Copenhagen Fashion Week to see the Soulland SS2011 fashion show.  Soulland’s been busy this season– theyve done a presentation in Paris in conjunction with (capsule), brought the collection to NY, are coming to Vegas next week and were able to squeeze in a huge fashion show. While we’ve previewed the collection several times here this season, here’s a look at some key runway looks, which merge Soulland’s distinct silhouettes and aesthetic with classic preppy influences. (ess)

More pics, thanks for Copenhagen Fashion Week after the jump.

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Frank Muytens is the gentleman credited with breathing new life into the J Crew menswear collection. We caught up with the VP of men’s design  and asked him a few questions…

You’ve managed to create clothes that appeal to both the cutting edge fashion crowd and the more mainstream consumer, which is something many designers aspire to do, but few actually execute successfully. What’s your approach when designing?

I like our pieces to have gravity and a heart, so we look at authentic references from the past, American culture, using elements from surplus and army /navy world, but also looking at the formal old world classic menswear pieces and making them modern and relevant again but still make them feel masculine and effortless. Almost lived in, like you had them forever, we pay a lot of attention to wash.  I like our garments to tell a story. I think our guy appreciates the references we use because he is slightly familiar with them, but the way we put looks together is how you make it exciting again.

What are 3 menswear items that you can’t live without right now?
Dark Levis XX
Russell Moccasins
Navy wool Ludlow jacket

How do you see the traditional Americana look evolving?
I think we will get a little bit more sophisticated and precise, still looking at the past, but just more cleaned up.  It’s an evolution…To me there’s nothing better then a sharp, understated, well- fitting suit.

London Fashion Week’s menswear day took place yesterday as the city’s most celebrated menswear designers took to the runways for AW10 collections. Among the standouts were Carolyn Massey, who showed oversized knits tops over slim pants in a muted pink and grey palette. James Long’s collection was inspired by ’90s performance artist Laurie Anderson-and his black on black collection gave us motorcycle inspired pieces in leather as well as super wide wale corduroy, and tons of chunky knit tops. Topman Design set itself apart with tweaked military-inspired menswear classics  in a vegetable-dyed palette. We’ve got highlights after the jump.

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More from London: Tim Blanks reports that James Long’s "acid army" looks were inspired by—among other very particular interests—Warhol’s oxidation paintings and Mapplethorpe’s photos. Blanks described the collection as “an intense, coherent statement about men at war.”  We love the updated camo looks, layered metallics and leathers and fresh take on the military theme. Pics after the jump.  (LFW/men.style)

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At London Fashion Week’s menswear day yesterday, exploration and travel was a huge theme and Carolyn Massey designed for an urban expeditioner in mind, with sporty outerwear, backpack and mountain climbing references mixed with traditional sportswear throughout.  Suits were accessorized with hiking gear. Nylon parkas got a fashion transformation – cropped and belted was the look, and accessorized with mountain climbing rope. Silhouettes were slim, and often cropped. Looks were topped off with brogues, rather than hiking boots for a look that was decidedly urban and fresh.  Pics after the jump. (LFW)

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Tommy Fazio, Men’s Fashion Director of Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus, has resigned today to become President of high-end men’s fashion brand SPURR.  On October 1^st, Fazio will officially join Creative Director Simon Spurr and CEO Judd Nydes as they continue to present their Spring 2010 collection. Spurr is definitely a brand to watch.  In February 2008, GQ in conjunction with the CFDA heralded SPURR as one of the ‘Best New Menswear Designers in America’ and earlier in 2007 DNR awarded SPURR with the ‘Editor’s Choice Award for Best New Label.’

It seems that this season designers are stepping outside of the box, going beyond traditional runway shows and presentations more than ever.  For his first men’s wear collection Siki Im opted for a presentation mixed with a little bit of performance art.  On lookers were ushered into the ground floor of a studio in the west village and greeted by a sole drum kit in the center of the room.  As guests continued to circle around, suddenly the lights went pitch black and two percussionists began drumming out tribal beats.  Just when everyone started to suspect that this was more of a light show meets drum circle, the models paraded out, the lights went up and the collection was revealed. Calling it ‘Black Beat White Wonder", Siki cites the classic novel "Lord of the Flies" as his inspiration for his spring 2010 debut men’s wear collection.  In a palette of all black, the collection gave a nod to minimalism with sharp tailored lines.  Without being cold, the clothes were both refined and modern.  A play on length and luxury fabrics was the focus.  The craftsmanship was evident in looks that featured tailored blazers, short and long skirts, and structured vests done in Australian Merino Wool, Mongolian Cashmere, silk organza, and English and Japanese fabrics.  Accessorized with a necklace of tangled cord, the clothes held strong and were anything but upstaged by the non-traditional presentation.  Siki Im definitely has us wanting to see what else he has in store!  See looks from the spring 2010 collection after the jump.  (Ashley Bell)

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Thom Browne’s shows are usually so weird, they border on the disturbing for those of us who only see the slideshows after the fact. This season, Browne showed his SS10 collection in his new store, (and dressed his models right out on the street) and he focused on showing more wearable looks (printed cardigans, well-cut shorts, fitted trimmed blazers,) while still injecting his fantasy elements in the lineup. All the elements of classic Browne were there—preppy/ sporty looks trimmed in red, white and blue were paired with suitings. New twists on the traditional suits, shorts and cropped pants gave the designer a little more depth. This season’s trousers weren’t the cropped skinny ones we’ve seen in the past. Browne sent billowy printed cropped printed trousers, as well as skinny pants cuffed with shirt cuffs. Also notable were the dolphin print knits, which popped the collection in knitwear. More pics, from NYMAG after the jump.

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Malibu in the ‘70s was the inspiration for BOY by Band of Outsiders, and models posed in front of a set that evoked the sand and waves of the beach. So what does a Malibu beach dude want to wear these days? The show started with sleek, single breasted suits, worn without the requisite skinny tie, followed by a handful of ways to wear shorts. They were paired with double breasted pea jackets, military shirtings, a trench, a hoodie under a blazer, and a dip dyed s/s button down. Band of Outsiders for Sperry Topsiders rounded off the looks.   Pics, from style.com, after the jump.

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The iconic british heritage brand Harris Tweed is woven in a beautiful setting by workers in their own homes on age-old machines in the most traditional manner. But all is not as idyllic as it sounds. With the closing of its largest mill, it’s crunch time for the business. The question is, can things be turned around? Or will the world lose another artisan-created product passed down through the ages from family to family? Pick up or log in to the current issue of Monocle to find out.