NY Fashion Week Loden Dager SS2010

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For Spring, Loden Dager took the textiles of Peru and Central America as a starting point. If the striped pattern on a loose shirt-and-pants combo or the slow-fade, Josef Albers-inspired geometric patterns on shorts-and-shirts sets didn’t tell you that, the stacks of woven bracelets adorning the models’ arms may have done the trick. It was an encouraging return to form for the New York-based collective, whose first runway show three seasons ago was dominated by colorful suits in utilitarian fabrics. Last season, that arresting proposition took a backseat to straight-up utility, but this time around utility was trumped by color and pattern. The monochrome pairings may be a tough proposition off the catwalk, but then, reminding oneself that in the real world people wear individual items, not head-to-toe looks, is an essential fashion-week skill. (Having said all that, one suspects the asymmetrical-closure shorts won’t see much daylight off the runway.) The graded prints and quirky wovens looked both interesting and wearable. The same was true for the roomy (but not boxy) tailored pieces, especially a suit coat rendered in a striking red ultralight nylon. (men.style.com)

 

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DESIGN CONVERSATIONS: ALEXANDER GALAN of LODEN DAGER

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I am honored to have the chance to get a few words with Alex Galan, a partner in  LODEN DAGER. After receiving rave reviews – looks like Alex and team are in need of some much deserved r+r. Check out what Galan has to say about wrapping his latest presentation. (YB).

Name: Alexander Galan
Occupation: Partner with Paul Marlow and Oliver Helden
Company: Loden Dager
Location: New York City

1. Besides your own – which collection are you most looking forward to seeing during fashion week and why? Marc Jacobs is always a thrill to see – he’s been supportive of us and Oliver works there and we have many friends there so we are looking forward to see how it all come together.

2. What did you do last night after your presentation?
After the show we went back to the studio and ordered BBQ and decompressed. It was a perfect way to end the evening.

3. Fashion week questions aside – since we are already into Fall, what I want to know is how you spent your summer? Summer was amazing. Oliver spent time in is house upstate and Paul and I went on an inspiration trip to Italy and weekends with friends in Fire Island.

 

 

NY RUNWAY: LODEN DAGER SS09

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The swells of rain didn’t keep the hard core fans of Loden Dager away from their presentation at Bungalow 8. Half the fans looked as if they had just jumped off a rescue boat from a deserted island with long beards, unkempt hair and lots of rustic jewelry. But that is just the kind of men the Loden boys love.  The line was consistent with previous seasons with fitted suits in plum, slate and a show-stopping aqua fading to peacock number perfect for a night on the town with your rat pack. The surprise of the show was the debut of womenswear. Women in svelte suits in muted tones worked well as did the organic taupe tank top and wrinkled royal blue skirt. The nylon opaque trench looked as the boys had found a pack of prophylactics for inspiration. But that’s what we love about Loden Dager-never taking fashion for face value. There is always a smirk in the details. (Cator Sparks)

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LIVE FROM (CAPSULE): LODEN DAGER

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Bright colors seem to be hot for spring and Loden Dager has infused plenty into their “Old Hollywood” themed collection. Each piece is considered a “go-to piece”- something you can grab that will look great whether it’s dressed up or down. –ABG

 

More pics after the Jump!

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A DOSE OF CAPSULE: LODEN DAGER

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The Spring /Summer ’09 collection is inspired by the spirit of classic Hollywood menswear in the 1940s. The clothes explore the idea of being elegant and well dressed yet comfortable in the heat of summer. This translates in double breasted jackets with peaked lapels, half lined spring suits in light colors, matching vests with slim lapels, dressy shorts, slacks with a looser cut and a Hollywood waist, and classic Maibu board shorts. The colors are tangy and soft including pale greens, salmon, yellows, and eggplant. The designers were aiming for clothes with an easy elegance: the kind of clothes that look dressy, but also look completely at home at the beach or pool-side.

RULES FOR LIVING BY PAUL MARLOW

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While the traditional code of gentlemen is a relic of a past age, there is a movement to revive certain sartorial traditions as well as gentlemanly pursuits. In the April edition of Dejour magazine, the mustachioed Paul Marlow, one of Loden Dager’s designers shares his rules to live by:

A man should always have an opinion.

A man should never rule out other possibilities.

A man Is in serious trouble when he hesitates.

If you can’t have a plan, at least have a direction.

Personally, I find repetitious apologies repulsive, because at some point, you have to learn.

Desperate times call for desperate measures. When in need, a clandestine trip to Mustique will make everything better.

There is not much better in this world than the feeling of uncontrollable laughter.

If there ever were a rule that begged on its knees to be broken, it is casual fridays.

 

LODEN DAGER

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We recently had lunch with some of the guys behind the menswear label Loden Dager. Paul and Alex are so sweet and together with Oliver and Matthew they run their business with a laser-like focus. While they still have day jobs, that’s sure to change soon, as the label has been hailed as one of the rising stars in menswear. Loden Dager’s collection of updated menswear classics features great colors, and each piece blends old world fashion sensilbilities with an appreciation for vintage menswear with an infusion of modern fashion sense.  I had the opportunity to check out their studio- a small space with exposed brick walls on

West 29th street

— in the fur district-which is probably one of the last authentic, ungentrified neighborhoods in NYC. We’ve got some pics from their studio and their Fall/Winter fashion show after the jump.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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LODEN DAGER’S STYLE MOMENT

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The designers of menswear label Loden Dager are guest bloggers on the NY Times style blog, The Moment, this week as they prepare for their upcoming Paris and New York shows. They’re working on overcoming hurdles like getting samples made despite a trucking strike in Italy, and looking for a place to stay in Paris in late January. And, they’ve started a record label. Check out their story here.

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