PARIS RUNWAY: A/W 2009 – DIOR HOMME

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For his A/W 2009 collection for Dior Homme, Kris Van Assche made heavy references to all things 80′s, and although other designers have done this successfully this season, his attempt seemed forced and, dare I say it, stale. The show featured the classic Dior Homme black suit in skinny New Wave proportions, like the bright colored ones seen last week at Gucci, oversized message T’s, which reminded us of Henry Holland and  paid homage to the ones Malcolm McLaren made decades ago (mcLaren did the music for the show); heavily pleated Hammer pants with an overlapping fly, a detail featured on pants at Balenciaga’s S/S 2009 collection, and a black vest with motorcycle zippers, which looks like it easily could be Marc by Marc Jacobs. Additionally the black boots were extremely Dr. Martens-like in shape and only added to the monochromatic Agyness Deyn look of the collection. I was hoping to see a more unique vision-, this collection almost sours a fashion week that should be considered highly imaginative and thought provoking  – Andrew Mukamal (photos via men.style.com)

 

 

 

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FOOTWEAR: Designer Hi-Tops

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It seems everyone is trying to get a hand, or foot rather, into the ever growing urban/streetwear market. Although the originals such as Nike, Adidas, and Puma still hold the reigns, there seem to be some new kids on the block. These aren’t newbies to the fashion world, but are actually household names when discussing fashion week in New York, Paris, and London. We’ve picked some of our favorites from the fashion big shots.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 Lanvin

Posted by Alexandra Ben-Gurion

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DENIM ROUNDUP: THE MARKET’S BEST JEANS?

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We like to do a denim roundup every so often, ranking our favorite jeans in the market. But this time, men.style.com’s new section, The Upgrader, has done the legwork for us. The site has listed the features of 10 great jeans from brands like Helmut Lang, Rag and Bone, apc, Levi’s, Dior Homme, 7 for all Mankind, Paper Denim & Cloth, Rogan, Earnest Sewn &  Prada and allows its readership to rank them. Click here to weigh in on the story or just see what’s hot now. 

 

photo: Rag & Bone, via men.style.com 

ON TREND: POST PUNK

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WGSN.com is reporting that the moody sophistication of Britain’s post-punk era has inspired a styling direction that mixes the raw originality of 1978 with a cleaner, early 80s sensibility, making for a dark approach to formal jeanswear.

A melting pot of merged musical sub-genres has given rise to the mix of punk leathers, new-wave tailoring and gothic-rock black, which drives this look reminiscent of the experimental aesthetic of 80s designer Thierry Mugler. He, in turn, has been a strong influence on futurist directions for the autumn/winter 2007/08 catwalks.

The look can be seen in recent issues of Arena Homme +, i-D, NYLON Guys and GQ Style, while quiffs that hark back to Elvis Costello‘s hairstyle circa 1978 appeared in the Dior Homme autumn/winter 2007/08 catwalk show.

Key to the look is the sombre combination of oversized outerwear, sharp minimal shirting, shrunken tailoring and clean biker jackets. Newly-proportioned layers can be used to emphasise an updated silhouette, complemented by vintage accessories and a gravity-defying hairstyle.

(Photo: Dior Homme a/w 2007 show, men.style.com)

Along those lines, we hear that fashion designer Keanan Duffty has launched a new band,called Slinky Vagabond. Bandmembers include Clem Burke- the drummer from Blondie, and Glen Matlock- bass player for the Sex Pistols, as well as David Bowie’s guitarist Earl Slick, with Duffty on vocals. The band makes its debut performance at NYC’s Irving Plaza on May 19- during the Joey Ramone Birthday Bash fundraiser. How’s that for post-punk?

NEWS: A PUBLIC FAREWELL FOR HEDI SLIMANE

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Designer Hedi Slimane left his post at Dior Homme last week but he’s not going without an explanation. The designer tells it all in a letter to his fans posted on his web site, HediSlimane.com . In the letter, Slimane thanks his old boss Bernard Arnault and all the people who have worked with him over the years. And he writes that he still loves the label but "there are areas I will not compromise when it comes to my work…", so he decided to leave and start his own label.

We’ve got the full text after the jump!

 

 

 

 

 

photo: men.style.com

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HEDI GETS THE BOOT

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Looks like contracts stalled between designer Hedi Slimane and the folks at LVMH. The designer, who revolutionized menswear with his Dior Homme collection,  has been in contract negotiations since last summer. Apparently he couldn’t cut a deal with his parent company, who has decided to cut him loose. Kris Van Assche will reportedly replace Slimane as designer of Dior. See the full story, after the jump.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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NOTE TO RETAILERS: MEN’S STYLE NOW

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The top tier male fashion consumer is all about selecting elements from a variety of influences and styles this season. If you haven’t heard, mixing designer labels with the top streetwear brands is what menswear is all about.

 

 

photo:stockholmstreetstyle.com

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