Everyone knows that tennis is Anna Wintour’s uncontested sport of choice, luring her away from Fashion Week each September (to Queens, no less) to watch Roger Federer play in the U.S. Open. But on Fashion’s Night Out, another match is making a play for the fashion set’s affections: the perennially underappreciated game (sport?) of Ping-Pong.The designers of rag & bone, Burkman Bros., Shipley & Halmos, and Rogan are facing off at Barneys men’s Co-op in a doubles contest of agility and athleticism. We interrupted their training regimens a week before the big match to see how they think they’ll fare against the competition. (the Cut)
(capsule) Paris x Stussy 30th Anniversary BBQ
September 7th, 2010Capsule, Events, Men's Brands, TradeShows, Women's Brands No CommentsA Dose of (capsule) Women’s: Tiedeken
September 7th, 2010Capsule, Interviews, Men's Brands, TradeShows, Women's Brands No Comments
In only its second season, Berlin-based label Tiedeken has been making significant strides with focused collections and attention to detail for both men’s and women’s clothing. Be sure to check them out at (capsule) Women’s NYC Sept 21-22 and have a look at what’s to come for SS2011.
Please provide me with a brief background about your company- when was it started, why? By whom? What is the collection known for – what’s the signature style?
TIEDEKEN is a Berlin-based fashion label founded in the beginning of 2010. The designers are Regina Tiedeken and Tom Keller. Regina Tiedeken was part of the label “vonwedel & tiedeken“, whose graphic design was significantly shaped by Tom Keller. The former Westwood assistant and the product designer now also offer menswear as part of their collection. TIEDEKEN is not only a fashion label. They also aim to position themselves in their previous fields of graphic, multi media, and costume design.
Penfield FW10 Lookbook – A Longmeadow Morning
September 2nd, 2010Lookbooks, Men's Brands, News, Women's Brands No Comments
When our good friend Mr Mort moved out West a while back to work on Dockers, we couldn’t imagine how the brand’s style profile could evolve from the official wardrobe of Casual Fridays to something cool. We spotted some fresh styles out in some cool stores in Copenhagen a few weeks ago, and now, witness the evolution—Steve Alan x Dockers launches next month. Eric Wilson has the scoop: IF ever there was a designer who was well suited to answer the current men’s wear call for the perfect pair of khaki pants, it would be Steven Alan. A decade ago, Mr. Alan expanded his retail and fashion-showroom businesses with a collection of signature men’s shirts that created an ideal ratio of fitted-ness to slouchy-ness, without any room for sloppiness. Now he has been tapped to develop a collection of khakis and sportswear for Dockers, which will arrive at Barneys New York and Steven Alan Annex stores in October. Dockers, you may recall, is not a fashion-forward brand. It is better known as a go-to resource for Casual Fridays, which makes the collaboration with Mr. Alan unusually intriguing, much the same as when Michael Bastian got his hands on Gant. (NYT)
Read the rest after the jump.
Monocle NY Shop to Open
September 1st, 2010Magazines and Media, Men's Brands, News, Retail, Women's Brands No Comments
NY finally got their Monocle shop earlier this week in the West Village. The store features a constantly evolving collection of fashion and lifestyle products as well as the new design collaborations from Oliver Spencer, the Tomorrowland x Monocle travel suit series, and the Ettinger card case. Covering just 188 sq ft, the store, located in a red brick landmark building, features Monocle magazine’s distinctive black-and-white design format, created by Monocle’s team of designers in London. The shop also has wooden floors, a slatted oak screen built by local artist and carpenter Kenon Perry, Vitsoe shelving, and a fully retractable glass store front.
535 Hudson Street (at Charles Street), NYC
In 1965, a Japanese magazine publisher sent photographer Teruyoshi Hayashida to Ivy League schools in the United States where he took a series of candid campus photographs that were later assembled into Take Ivy, a now-iconic ethnography that will be released in English for the first time by PowerHouse Books this week. One of the most sought-after research and inspiration books, especially in the prep and Americana movements in contemporary menswear, Take Ivy has influenced designers including Ralph Lauren, Michael Bastian, and J. Crew’s Frank Muytjens. Racked caught up with Ed Heald, a 1968 Dartmouth grad whose photograph appears twice in the book—on pages 54 and 70—to get the scoop from the other side of Hayashida’s camera. Heald, a freshman at the time the photo was taken, came to Dartmouth from Hudson, Ohio. His father, grandfather, and uncle all graduated from Dartmouth. Read the interview after the jump. (Racked)
A Dose of (capsule) Women’s: Makin Jan Ma
August 31st, 2010Capsule, Men's Brands, News, TradeShows, Women's Brands No Comments
Over the course of the last few seasons, London-based designer Makin Jan Ma has used his eponymous label as a means to establish fully-realized personas for characters in an ongoing art project encompassing film, music and painting. Central St. Martin’s grad Jan Ma describes himself as a filmmaker first, evident in the elaborate backstories he creates for his two main characters Guts and J. Sky, whose wardrobes and homes are brought to life in the segmented lookbooks for each collection. J. Sky for example, as depicted here by model Felix B, made a fortune off of a Polish porn site and tends to forget birthdays. The garments that make up the SS11 collection are similarly idiosyncratic, an androgynous mix of sheer fabrics, silk shirts, moon and camo prints and simple shorts. Makin Jan Ma will be on hand this season at (capsule) Women’s New York, and will also debut a picture novel based on J. Sky and a collaboration with guitarist/model Raoul Colvile to set Guts’ journey to music. See more from the SS11 collection below. (Steve Dool)
Shoreditch’s recently opened men’s boutique Hostem is a stand-out stop for shoppers combing the streets of East London’s ever-burgeoning neighborhood. Proprietor James Brown sought to marry his favorite, though often disparate, sartorial aesthetics under one roof, yielding a selection of offerings that are both austere and artisanal.
From the tightly edited cadre of brands (Ann Demeulemeester, Casely-Hayford, Adam Kimmel) to Hostem’s JAMESPLUMB-conceived interiors, the store’s concept of elegant, intelligent design unifies the space and its contents. “So many cultures have influenced me from living in Umbria to Los Angeles,” Brown explains. “It was important my various experiences were reflected in Hostem.” It’s fitting, then, that the décor—Swedish linen curtains, hand-painted hessian wall panels and front desk-cum-former church pew—contributes a balancing sense of calm and quiet. That the shop takes its name from the Latin “audio hostem,” or “I hear the enemy,” further suggests Brown’s potential antagonists are anything too gaudy or trendy. (JCReport) More after the jump.
41-43 REDCHURCH STREET – LONDON – E2 7DJ
A Dose of (capsule) Women’s: boessert/schorn
August 30th, 2010Capsule, Men's Brands, News, TradeShows, Women's Brands No Comments
Designer Sonia Boessert describes the German collection boessert/schorn as “rough, inaccurate and nonchalant”—just like life itself. The brand, which was launched in 2006 by the two designers Sonia Boessert and Brigitte Schorn has been shown in Paris, Berlin and Tokyo since 2006, and is known for its use of materials with unusual surfaces and structures especially knitwear in all its variations. The collection features special handcrafted methods, knit techniques and dyeing, basically inspired by craft and traditional costumes as well as the art forms of Bauhaus and DaDa. Boessert, who just bought a new kitten, tells us a bit about SS2011 after the jump.
View the full collection at (capsule) Women’s, Sept 21-22 in NYC


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